I'm putting up a shed and using sheet metal for the roof and 2 sides (ends will be open). Goal is to build a short term (5 yrs) inexpensive shed to cover equipment from the weather. I found 26 inch by 12 foot sections of corrugated sheet metal at a lumber store for $12.50 each....it is the cheapest I've found. I have several questions as I've never worked with sheet metal before. How much overlap is required on roof and sides? Can I get by with cheap screws or do I need to use sheet metal screws (again budget is minimal)? Are special washers required? I need to cut a couple sheets diagonally. What is the best way to do this....someone mentioned using a circular saw with the blade backwards. Sounds easier than tin snips?? Is $12.50 for a low grade 2x12 sheet about as low as one can buy corrugated sheet metal?
Most corrugated only has to be overlapped one roll.I would seal with silicone though.Screws should not be a problem (especially since it is a relatively short term thing).You do need rubber washers to keep the screws from leaking unless you can put faith in a tube of silicone caulk. Cutting method is correct.Be sure to wear long sleeves and a face shield. The shavings are nasty.Cost is relative to the area and demand. Good luck.
John, You might do some checking. I just resided a shed for the Mother-in-law. A local metal dealer let me order the 5 rib steel siding cut to the inch. This sure made it quicker for installation and the only waste I ended up with was cutting the angles for the gables. I used the screws with neoprene washers that are supposed to start without drilling but it was quicker for me to use two drills, one with a drill bit and the other with a driver. Good luck
John, I'm not really sure where that backwards blade thing got started. I have always used a proper metal blade in a circular saw but tried it when I first heard that wive's tale about using a regular blade backwards. Maybe it's just me, but all this did was burn, bind and knock off some teeth on my blade. A proper metal cutting blade is not that expensive You can sometimes rent a guillotine cutter where you purchase the metal.
I saw that nails with washers are much cheaper than the screws. The guy at Lowes said all old barns were build with nails and they should work fine. I'm a little worried about driving nails in the high end of the corrugation. Wouldn't it either tend to slip or at least pound the corrugation flat in that area?? Would nails work fine or do I really need to use screws?
I agree that the correct blade would not be that expensive and probably safer. Did my father-in-laws 50x100 barn with the backwards blade thing and never lost a tooth.Suggest you buy the blade though. You should not be nailing (or screwing) in the high end of the corrugation as it will not be sitting on whatever your nailing to in the high end.What you are nailing to will be running across the waves. Nails will work.
I wholeheartedly agree that you should avoid using a saw blade in the reverse direction that it is designed and engineered and intended to cut. Having dealt with contractors and diyers for several years at my fastener supply house I have heard many stories about serious injury from misusing saw blades in this fashion. Purchase metal cutting blades, but make sure that they are engineered to cut the guage of the sheet metal you are using. Screws will in the long run perform better than nails for your type of application. Manufacturers of corrugated metals usually recommend screws for the installation of their products; and some even have proprietary screws made just for them and to their strict specifications. Screws, in the most general of terms of course, have ratings in four main strength catagories; tensile, yield, shear and pullout. So do nails; but screws, in most cases and with some exception of course, outperform nails of the same sizes in nearly each catagory. The other advantage to using screws is that they come in a greater variety of base materials and coatings which will help extend the life and reduce maintenance and upkeep of your project; by preventing rust and prohibiting hydrogen embrittlement. It is important to use either rubber or neoprene sealing washers in your type of application. Doing so, and installing them properly, will eliminate or greatly reduce the chance of leakage, but they also serve as isolators or a barrier between dissimilar metals. One of the major reasons, there are of course many reasons, fasteners fail is because there is a chemical reaction between the different metals that the nail and/or screw is made from and that of the material it is in contact with. This reaction is only worsened and accelerated by the weather elements. There are many inexpensive screws available for your application that have numerous drive head selections (phillips, hex, torx, etc) and excellent coatings with factory mounted washers. The fastener industry calls these SEMS which stands for preasSEMbled. SEMS are vailable in nearly every popular size, coating, and with a variety of washers. A word of caution: It is possible to overtighten some types of SEMS and damage the washer which will reduce it's function. The better SEMS will have a rubber (or neoprene) washer under a metal washer. That metal washer (often called the 'cap' of a SEMS) prevents damage to the rubber or neoprene when the screw head is spinning and being driven tight, but that metal washer also helps extend washer life as it shields the material from harmful UV rays. If I were doing this project I'd get stainless hex headed SEMS with rubber washers and stainless caps. Being stainless they can be pricey and a bit brittle but they will outperform any comperable nail and you'll never have leakage or rust spots or rust runs.
PS: Should you decide on using nails instead of screws there are rubber and neoprene washers, with and without metal caps, that are sold seperatley and can be utilized with nails. They can be round, square, hex shaped, stars, and for tight spaces - oblong. Some even come in colors. Use a good ring shank nail, and IMHO an epoxy coated one. It will bond extremely well with the base material from the heat of friction when driven in. Also: There are nails available with factory installed weather proof washers. These are KEPS which stand for shaKEProof. The washer will not come loose and slide down the shaft from vibration when struck by the hammer. They must be driven as straight as possible for the washer to properly seal.
I often purchase unwanted, leftover, etc corrugated and other types of metal siding and roofing from contractors and building supply houses for resale at my ornamental and architectural salvage yards. Over the past couple of years I've noticed warning signs near the sales counters about not using circular saw blades backwards, and some of the MDS also have a warning against doing so. A MDS is Material Data Sheet. It's a little bit like those MSDS Material Safety Data Sheets for hazardous chemicals that warn against spill, fire, and health hazards and tell you what to do if any of that stuff happens. MDS are slapped on some products in a self-stick packet that looks like a packing slip thingy. MDS tell you what the stuff is made out of, where it was made, and other things like what to wear when cutting it ... such as eye shields and dust masks for example. Some of the siding I've bought for resale had MDS packets stuck on it that when opened up and read warned against reverse saw blade cutting.
Kinda looks like I opened a can of worms with my reply. Let me put a disclaimer to my original post. Although it is POSSIBLE to cut sheet metal with a circular saw blade installed backwards, It IS NOT recommended and is a safety hazard. Lots of things we did in the past (such as asbestos removal ) have proven to be hazardous and this practice is one of them.
I worked for a time makeing that corrugated sheet metal. If you look when you get it . Most of the time its like two sheet's are like together. Thats cause they are fed in the roller two at a time. Also there is a side that should be the over lap and a side thats the under one. It does work a lot better if you can drill the holes for nails are screws with the rubber washer on them. You do want to put them on the ridge of the metal not down in the little valleys like . If they are not to heavy Ga you can cut them with a snips and bend it back right My .02 cents ED
Cutting sheet metal. Using any Blade with teeth to cut sheet metal that thin diagonally is big trouble. Go to your hardware store and ask them for a 7 inch dia. 1/8 thick reinforced cut off DISK (for METAL) that will fit your saw READ the SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Notes: The edge you cut off will be very sharp. The sparks from the disk can set your lawn or something on FIRE. Price about $5.00 I think the over lap is 1 inch for your 26 width. With one inch on each side that will give a 24 inch spacing for the studs.
Hiyall, I cut steel with my chop saw, and when the blades are too small for cutting with it, they fit perfectly in my 7 inch circular. I then use them for odd peices that cannot be clamped into the chop saw, stuff like cutting across a sheet of corrugated for example. Be sure to secure the work, and BE CAREFUL. You might be able to get the used blades from a welder or other metal worker. Not everyone uses this trick. I have a question, does anyone know of a jig to cut 2X4's so that they are scalloped like a piece of corrugated, so that you can screw into the top of the waves, or is it best just to screw into the bottoms?
Tags: sheet, metal, sheet metal, rubber neoprene, corrugated sheet, corrugated sheet metal, metal washer, that they, about using, agree that
We have septic tanks and want to know which toilet paper is the best for septic tanks. Used to be a die hard Charmin user till we had the tanks pumped the first time. Switched to Northern after that and now were told that wasn't good either. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
I have seen it listed on packages that the brand is safe for standard septic and sewer systems. Not sure what that exactly means. I have never worried about the brand. I am more careful about oil, grease and strong chemicals in the septic. I realize that you cannot totally remove these things from the system, but, you can limit the introduction to the system. Septic systems work with bacteria that eat whatever goes to the tank. I am careful to not put things into the tank that will kill the bacteria. I use enzyme drain cleaners when I HAVE to use one. I have had 2 septic systems over the last 20 years and have had no problems. Never pumped either (which I am NOT recommending). They should be pumped every few years. Good luck.
a neighbor of mine is a septic contractor and says the same things dragon mentioned. he also said the tank shoud be pumped every five years minimum. hi doesn't charge me so i know it's not a sales pitch. say's the build up of solids and unavoidable grease are the reason.
I having my tank pumped tomorrow. The last time was four years ago. At that time the pumper guy said that Charmin was the worst for a septic tank because it just doesn't break down. I'm having problems now with my washer backing up. I'll check in tomorrow with the prognosis. Hopefully, it is because the tank is full and the field can't handle the large amount of water the washer pumps into it.
ghdflowerpower, Washing machine waste contains a lot of lint. The lint, plus the soap residue causes many drain line clogs. If you find out that the problem is not the drainfield, try an exzyme drain cleaner such as Draincare. The bacteria cling to organic clogs and eat them in much the same way the septic works. It is safe for septic systems. Takes overnight but does work. Follow label directions including using hot water. Good luck.
We went through the county and got permits for the job two years ago. The guy that did the job was recommended by the county agent. My biggest fear is that the washer water is filling up the septic tank and letting toilet paper and other floaties into the drainfield. Is this possible? We have been bad about putting additives into the system. I will go out and buy some ASAP. Thanks.
if yoru finger goes through it, its good for the tank..lol
Hey Majakdragon, The septic tank was pumped and it wasn't as bad as I thought. So, like you said, the washer drain pipe must be clogged with lint and such. Now I'm treating the drain pipe for the washer with an enzyme cleaner that I had already called Drain Care. Today is the 4th day of tx and it is a little better. Is there a better way to put this stuff in besides the pipe where the washer discharges? Thanks
If it is only the washer drain that is causing the problem, thats what you want to clean out. All of your pipes are basically connected together and exit the house via the main line. I think going through the washer drain is the best way to correct the problem. It will not hurt anything if you treat more than one pipe with the Drain care. If you know the location of the main going to the septic, treat the fixture AFTER the washer drain (going away from the main drain)
try using cottenlle, it breaks apart fast, we have been using it for about ten years, and have only had our tank pumped once.
Originally Posted by monikki We have septic tanks and want to know which toilet paper is the best for septic tanks. Used to be a die hard Charmin user till we had the tanks pumped the first time. Switched to Northern after that and now were told that wasn't good either. Any suggestions would be appreciated! In the classes I have taken on on-site septic systems the instructor has said that white paper breaks down. Do not use the pretty colored stuff. My wife came from the farm, there they don't flush the paper down, it goes into a separate garbage can that is emptied regularly. I tried the wife's method and it took awhile to get used to but our tank has no scum on top and very little sludge on the bottom. When I was single my tank had enough scum on top that you could walk on it, never did try that though. Also we don't put any food scraps into the system, the plates are scraped clean. If you are having an excessive build up of scum or sludge you might need a larger tank.
Tags: toilet, paper, septic, tank, septic tanks, washer drain, have septic, tank pumped, after that, after that were, after that were told, after that were told that, best septic
hi, Does anyone know make roman shades that can hang from a curtain rod? I have moved into a home that already has curtain rods setup. I would like to install roman shades on the window using the existing curtain rods. Thanks, --Sruti
These romans are actually made like a normal roman, which is board mounted, and the rod is hung above, to which a heading is made on top of the roman so it looks like it's hanging from a rod when it's really not. There are good instructions for this in the Singer Window Treatments book. You can get this for a couple dollars from Amazon's marketplace WindowTreatments They show it with grommets and a rope, but you could use tabs or rings.
I don't know why it couldn't be done. Make your roman with a rod pocket and a ruffle and you should be good to go. The only problem that I can see with it will be the weight. I'm assuming that you have a simple non-traversing rod. Typically these rods use cheap and flimsy brackets and the center supports are horrible (some supply nails for installation which makes it even worse). A roman is heavy and pulling on the lift cord will put tremedous pressure on the flimsy rod. If you have a traverse rod then you can simply gut it out. A traverse rod will hold up ok. Just make sure you reduce your return to it's minimum depth. Hope that helps
You can't just hang a working roman on a rod. It doesn't work that way. A rod pocket and ruffle may work on a balloon or cloud shade, but won't work on a flat roman and would look strange, too.
The question wasn't put a working roman on a curtain rod. The question was how do I make a roman that will fit on an existing rod. Can it be done? YES. Is it recommended? NO.
And I told them make a roman on a rod. It's the correct, and recommended, and only way! What you're saying makes no sense and doesn't work.
As soon as you tell us installers that something cant work, we will tell you exactly how it can. LOL I think that the design, layout, and sewing of the fabric is not the problem. The only change from a board mounted roman would be the rod pocket needed at the top. The big issue I see is the operation of the pull cord. One, would the rod and its mounting brackets be sturdy enough to handle the combined weight of the shade AND the pulling force to raise it?? And second, the routing of the cord would be questionable. It would probably have to run through sewn-in rings in the back and certainly need a wall cleat to keep it in a raised position(no cord lock). The raising process would put a great strain on the rings/stitching at the top!! Can I visualize it being done? Yes. Would it work? Yes. Would I actually try to do it? No way.
Perhaps you installers have missed my first response that explained the way to do this, is to mount a board, under the rod, and then add a header, such as tabs, to the top of the roman so that it looks like it's hanging from a rod. This is the way us master drapery makers do it. I don't know anyone that would hang a working roman from a rod alone and expect it to work properly. I would however, hang a stationary roman from a rod and tie the rings together with either split rings or cable ties.
isn't this a roman shade hanging from only a rod? maybe that's what this poster is thinking about making?? or maybe they meant a balloon shade? or maybe we could suggest a simple tie-up shade?
Originally Posted by Annette isn't this a roman shade hanging from only a rod? No. If you zoom in and look real close, you'll see the top of the shade is very rigid because there's there's something hard there where the shade hardware is attached to. Not sure what they use for readymades, but if you notice, they include the rod and all hardware along with the shade. A balloon would work the same way. IMO only a stationary, non operable shade will work properly, if just hung on a rod alone.
Tags: roman, shades, curtain, rods, hanging from, make roman, working roman, board mounted, cord would, curtain rods, doesn work, from only, hang working
Help - Let someone borrow our chainsaw and now it will start but will not run. Read some of the other post and have replaced the sparkplug and cleaned the airfilter... We also loosened the gas cap, started it up and it would run. Press the trottle and it would shut off. The longest it has ran was about 30 seconds (and only once). Now what? Thanks so much for any and all help.
This is why I won't loan powertools to anyone. Is it possible that whomever you loaned it too didn't mix oil in the gas when running it? The piston could have gotten hot enough to do damage, but not hot enough to actually sieze it to the cylinder. Sounds like a carb problem though. Try taking the carb off and put a new gasket kit in it. Pull the welch plugs and replace the filter screens. Replace welch plugs with small punch and put a drop of clear fingernail polish around them when you punch them back in. The polish acts like a thread locker to keep the welch plugs from, coming out. Wipe off excess after installing the plugs. Best way to get the old plugs out is to punch them with an awl and then pry them out. Pay carefull attention to the gaskets when you take them off. There are 2 gaskets on each side. The side with 4 screws--the thick gasket goes on first and the thin gasket with the metal washer on it, goes on last. The side with only 1 big screw--thin gasket goes on first, followed by the thicker one. Don't over tighten screws. The gaskets are soft, and so is the aluminum. Replace the main jet too. It's included in the kit. The jet is under that gasket with the little metal washer on it. There is a little fork-shaped piece of metal that pivots back and forth on a small shaft. There is a small phillips screw holding it all together. Be Carefull when removing that little phillips screw. There is a tiny spring under there, and it usually ends up flying across the room if your not careful. Good luck finding it, if you drop it. Now pull the jet out and just drop the new one in. If a carb kit, and some adjusting won't fix it, your probably going to have to take it to the local shop. To adjust carb: Carb will have an L and an H stamped on it. High speed needle and Low speed needle. Adjust the high speed first: Run the saw up to full throttle and turn the H screw in (Lean) untill saw reaches max speed and then slows down. Now back the screw out again the other way untill the saw picks up speed again and then slows down. That will be just slightly rich. You want to run it a bit on the rich side because when you sink that chain into a log and put a load on the saw, it takes more fuel to keep it running. If you just tune it for max speed and cut logs with it--you'll be running it too lean, and cook it. Adjust the low side next: Same as high side. Turn the L screw in and listen to the saw pick up speed. Turn it in about 1/4 turn at a time untill you hear saw slow down or maybe even die. Now back the screw out about 1/4--1/2 turn and check throttle response. It should be snappy. Engine should idle well for at least 30--45 seconds and then snap to attention instantly when you give it full throttle. It is stumbles and stutters when you throttle up--it's still a bit rich. You can lean the L needle about 1/8th turn at a time untill it's nice and smooth on transition. Go back and double check the H needle to make sure it's still a little rich. Adjusting the L needle has an effect on the H needle, so be sure and doublecheck the H needle after you tune the low end. You may have to adjust the idle screw after tuning the L needle. If the engine was overly rich, and you adjusted the low nedle, it will make the idle spped up. Just back that big screw (with the spring on it) out untill it idles at the speed you want. Usually slow enough that the chain won't turn when the saw is idleing.
i have one pp4218av did the same thing loaned it out had the same problem check the return springs for the linkages that controles throat plates i'll bet one is broken that is what i found with mine even if you didn't loan it out it would have probably happend to you if that is the problem good luck in search of new spring for mine
I believe I'd start by opening the mixture screws a bit, and readjusting them. Actually, I'd probably start by changing the gas to be sure it has fresh gas with the proper oil mix in it. Then if there are still problems, go to the mixture screw. Sometimes opening them up and readjusting them allows a bit of trash to flush through and clear up the problem.
I realize this is an old thread, but maybe you guys are still around to answer my question. I need to know the factory settings for the H and L adjustments. My saw will not start and I know the adjustment screws have been changed from the factory settings. My saw is the Poulan Woodshark P3314 WSA 802046 S/N 06198D301478-2 (06:50), 42CC:EM Thanks
Turn them both in until they lightly seat, then back them out 1 turn each. Then start it and adjust the L screw for best idle and crisp throttle response. Rev up all the way and adjust H screw until it revs the fastest, then back off the screw until the saw begins to flutter a bit. From there you may have to go back and fine tune the L screw.
Just where do you get a special tool to adjust the 2 mixture screws on a Poulan chainsaw?? They both are not the same type?? One looks like it has a security pin in the middle?? I am having trobuble with it running at high speed. It want to stall. Idle and low speed are fine
Fuel cap vent is plugged. That's why you hear the hiss of in-rushing air when you open cap. Engine has sucked a vacuum into tank, eventually starving fuel flow. Completely disassemble cap and drill out or punch out tiny center breather hole. Assemble and install cap.Beer 4U2
Do not follow that advice. You risk setting yourself on fire this way. You probably need to open the high speed screw a little bit. There are often times caps that pop onto the screws that limit them and you can remove them if necessary. Sometimes you have to use a pair of very thin needle-nose pliers to turn them. Some can be turned with a blue electrical butt-connector pushed down over the head of it.
Ha! There's a one-way, rubber check valve inside the cap to allow air in and keep fuel from escaping. Sorta looks like a nipple on a baby bottle. You need to remove the tether retainer to get to it. You'll understand if you actually know how the cap is constructed. All that said, if the saw dies while running and there's a hiss when you remove the fuel cap, disassemble cap and drill out the tiny bronze plug in the vent hole.
Believe me, I know how the cap is constructed. I do not recommend drilling a hole in it. If you are disassembling the cap only to clean the vent hole behind the duckbill, that's one thing, but that doesn't sound like what you recommended in the previous post. You said to drill or punch a hole in it. I guess you could have meant to drill or punch out the already existing vent hole? If the existing hole is clogged, just clean it out. No need for punches and drills. Trying to keep it safe here... we get some wacky advice from time to time. I'm sure you understand.
If the other suggestions do not work. I just fixed a problem with a 2-cycle backpack blower that was doing the same thing. The gas line had cracked. The bowl would fill when you primed it (it was leakind fuel where I could not see it), it would start, but would die when bowl emptied. Fixed line, and issue was resolved. Also, if it was working well when you loaned it, your friend may have used contaminated fuel, might need to clean the carb. Scott
Originally Posted by jgavrile Just where do you get a special tool to adjust the 2 mixture screws on a Poulan chainsaw?? They both are not the same type?? One looks like it has a security pin in the middle?? I am having trobuble with it running at high speed. It want to stall. Idle and low speed are fine Did you ever get hold of a tool to get at those adjustment screws? I need the same thing , ...mine is hard starting and won't idle at all, ... someone suggested backing the screws out a turn or two and cranking to clear debris, then return them to original settings, .... I'm getting poor fuel delivery into the motor and can't wet the plug no matter how much priming or choking I do, ... it'll sometimes start on full throttle, usually not even that, ... cheers
Originally Posted by cheese Turn them both in until they lightly seat, then back them out 1 turn each. Then start it and adjust the L screw for best idle and crisp throttle response. Rev up all the way and adjust H screw until it revs the fastest, then back off the screw until the saw begins to flutter a bit. From there you may have to go back and fine tune the L screw. Do you define a turn as 180* or 360*? .... thx
360 degrees. Just as a starting point for the settings.
Spoke with a Husqvarna representative during a training course.And here is what he said on carb adjusting 2 cyl products. ------------------------------------------------------------ Reset carb by gently screwing both (H L)adjustment screws all the way in and they backing them out exactly 2 turns(1 turn= 360 degrees). You should be able to start your product then you will need to idle it up enough for it to stay running on its own.Here is the key you have to let engine warm up approx 4-5 min before making major adjustments or you could end up setting it too lean. Once engine is warm run at full speed and make you adjustment on the L only,then you will need to adjust idle accordingly after. ------------------------------------------------------------ Person experience: Some older models you will need to reset carb to only 1 and 1/2 turn instead of 2.Then follow the above instructions. Remember:Alot of times you can mask over other more serious problems by making big adjustments If you have to make huge adjustments after resetting carb and checking fuel system(filter,lines,etc..)then more than likely you have a problem somewhere else. I have part numbers for some of the carb adjust tools and will try and post them later when I get a chance. Hope this helps....
So according to the tech, the H screw should be exactly 2 turns out and stay there, never to be moved? I disagree and this can cause problems in certain conditions. For the best performance and engine longevity, adjust as mentioned earlier. You can start with the screws 2 turns out rather than 1 if 1 isn't enough to get it to run well enough to fine tune it.
One of the best sayings I have heard is, “When everything else fails read the instructions.” The three leading carburetor manufacturers have websites that includes carburetor adjustment instructions. Equipment manufactures give carburetor adjustment instructions for the carburetors installed on their equipment. Walbro About Walbro About Walbro Service Manuals Zama USA Zama : Service Tips Tillotson (my least favorite site) the manuals give complete instructions. till3
Not one of you spoke a word about cleaning the fuel filter and not one of you spoke a word about doing a compression test. Not one of you ever thought to take it to a repair shop and pay a couple of dollars to a trained service tech that could have probably repaired it for less then $20! Penny wise and dollar foolish. If you had a job, you could take the chainsaw to a shop and have it repaired and work one extra hour or maybe two and make more money at work then what it would cost to pay someone to fix your saw for you. So how much do you really save when you spend several weekends working on the chainsaw instead of cutting firewood? If you can't fix it, then get rid of it and buy another one. Walmart and Lowes sold Poulans for $150 - and that was with a spare chain, a file kit and a tool kit and a carrying case!
Originally Posted by Claw Hammer Not one of you spoke a word about cleaning the fuel filter and not one of you spoke a word about doing a compression test. Not one of you ever thought to take it to a repair shop and pay a couple of dollars to a trained service tech that could have probably repaired it for less then $20! Penny wise and dollar foolish. If you had a job, you could take the chainsaw to a shop and have it repaired and work one extra hour or maybe two and make more money at work then what it would cost to pay someone to fix your saw for you. So how much do you really save when you spend several weekends working on the chainsaw instead of cutting firewood? If you can't fix it, then get rid of it and buy another one. Walmart and Lowes sold Poulans for $150 - and that was with a spare chain, a file kit and a tool kit and a carrying case! Apparently you looked at one of the posts concerning a chainsaw problem not carburetor adjustment. The problem with this thread it was HIJACKED FOUR TIMES. I violated my own rule of not posting to a hijacked thread. My post concerned the carburetor adjustment post. If I had caught the HIJACK earlier, I would have moved it to a new thread. Hijacking threads creates confusion.
Cheese, I am not arguing with you I am just relaying the info that was given directly to me from the company I work for.I have been adjusting the carbs that way as they requested and have actually seen a drop in recalls.Once again this is mostly on newer products 2008+.( I think the Instructor is playing it safe by having us adjust it a little on the rich side) Airman, Thanks for the links. Claw hammer,I am a 2 cyl technician for a major corporation been doing this type of work for about 4 years our labor rate is a little more than twice what you mentioned it would take to repair it. Yes, however at times it would be best to buy a new one,but these forums are for those that are trying to help each other out with what they know.
Normally I would do this in a private message, but since you publicly insulted everyone on this thread, I will state my position publicly as well. Claw hammer, if you go buy new equipment every time it needs a $20 service, let me haul off your trash for you. That would be what I call penny wise and dollar foolish; spending money on a replacement rather than fixing it yourself. That...by the way... is what this site is about, and what the recent posters asked for (advice about adjusting carbs). Why would we suggest cleaning a fuel filter? Modern fuel filters are not meant to be cleaned, they are meant to be replaced. Also, the original poster never replied to the first advice given, which did indicate there could be internal damage. The rest of the replies were to other members with other questions about adjusting carbs. Finally, what gives you the right to assume the poster is too cheap to pay for a repair or doesn't have a job? You are a disservice to this forum and we would appreciate it if you kept your opinion to yourself. Members who come to this site seeking advice shouldn't have to put up with your type of replies. Thank you and have a nice day. gh0st, I'm not arguing either...it's all good. I also feel that 2 turns out is very possibly too rich, which is definitely better than too lean, but not good either. It may reduce call backs, but if it's too rich it will contribute to carbon buildup, which as you know causes clogged exhausts and sometimes cylinder scoring when pieces break loose. I fine tune the H screw for every engine, not just a set number of turns out. I do hit optimum, then go a hair on the rich side though, for good measure. Call backs on equipment I adjusted are rare.
Originally Posted by cheese Normally I would do this in a private message, but since you publicly insulted everyone on this thread, I will state my position publicly as well. Claw hammer, if you go buy new equipment every time it needs a $20 service, let me haul off your trash for you. That would be what I call penny wise and dollar foolish; spending money on a replacement rather than fixing it yourself. That...by the way... is what this site is about, and what the recent posters asked for (advice about adjusting carbs). Why would we suggest cleaning a fuel filter? Modern fuel filters are not meant to be cleaned, they are meant to be replaced. Also, the original poster never replied to the first advice given, which did indicate there could be internal damage. The rest of the replies were to other members with other questions about adjusting carbs. Finally, what gives you the right to assume the poster is too cheap to pay for a repair or doesn't have a job? You are a disservice to this forum and we would appreciate it if you kept your opinion to yourself. Members who come to this site seeking advice shouldn't have to put up with your type of replies. Thank you and have a nice day. gh0st, I'm not arguing either...it's all good. I also feel that 2 turns out is very possibly too rich, which is definitely better than too lean, but not good either. It may reduce call backs, but if it's too rich it will contribute to carbon buildup, which as you know causes clogged exhausts and sometimes cylinder scoring when pieces break loose. I fine tune the H screw for every engine, not just a set number of turns out. I do hit optimum, then go a hair on the rich side though, for good measure. Call backs on equipment I adjusted are rare. Cheese I'm not sure if ClawHammer needed to be banned unless he did something elsewhere, but that said he seemed to miss the point of the forum as you clearly said. I've tried numerous things with my Poulan Pro 4318 AVX except the two full turns as a start setting to get the saw started. I'll give that a shot tomorrow. May be too late anyhow as yesterday I did a compression test and got 60psi dry and 130psi wet, .... my little green Poulan 16 got 140 in two pulls and runs like a champ. More hours on it than the Pro I might add. My conclusion is it's ring time. I got a ring from a local Poulan dealer here who assured me that 1) the Pro does not have a two-year warranty as indicated elsewhere, and 2) that he could not sell me a carb adjust tool and that Poulan sold same only to dealers. He also felt that 60 psi was plenty of compression for a chainsaw. I bought a ring from him and decided that I'll deal online with any other chainsaw issues on the basis that I don't need uninvited opinions and unhelpful dealers. Tune in tomorrow for the ongoing saga of the Poulan Pro that WON'T ....
I didn't ban him. I don't know who did, one of the super mods I guess. He may have caused issues in another forum as well, or there may have been several complaints? I don't agree that 60 psi is good on any engine.
60 psi is only good if you want to plant flowers in it. That is why your saw won't start.
Originally Posted by marbobj 60 psi is only good if you want to plant flowers in it. That is why your saw won't start. My direct experience with my two Poulan saws leads me to agree with you, and therefore disagree with the dealer who felt 60 was OK, ... as I said I'll deal elsewhere from now on. Ignorance has no place in the workplace. Beer 4U2
i have one pp4218av did the same thing loaned it out had the same problem check the return springs for the linkages that controles throat plates i'll bet one is broken that is what i found with mine even if you didn't loan it out it would have probably happend to you if that is the problem good luck in search of new spring for mine
From the discription I think I read, they sound like insert bits or tools. They look like a torx bit with a hole in them. I found them in a local hdw. store in the bit asst cabinet along with the phillips, square, hex etc. Sid
Originally Posted by arnold123 i have one pp4218av did the same thing loaned it out had the same problem check the return springs for the linkages that controles throat plates i'll bet one is broken that is what i found with mine even if you didn't loan it out it would have probably happend to you if that is the problem good luck in search of new spring for mine I know this is an old post but I am in the same situation. I dont know if the spring broke or if there was a locking mechanism that connects to the carb itself which is now. missing. There is a slot on the carb that looks as if something should go there to lock the spring. ???????? any help out there????
I'm not real familliar with the 4218,, But the Poulan website Poulan Pro - Poulan - Weed Eater - McCulloch - User Manuals has a parts look-up that may help you... Roger
Originally Posted by hopkinsr2 I'm not real familliar with the 4218,, But the Poulan website Poulan Pro - Poulan - Weed Eater - McCulloch - User Manuals has a parts look-up that may help you... Roger Thanks for the reply however I think that the carbs on these things are so cheap that they don't even make repair parts for them.
my problem is that the saw starts and runs with the choke out but revs and dies when you take choke off. Carb set 1 1/2 out on both needles.
Hello dowjim1, Your carburetor needs to be taken apart and cleaned, possibly rebuilt, and check the condition of your fuel lines.
I have a Poulan Pro 255 that would start ok but die immediately when I gave it gas, just like others have experienced. I tried removing the air filter since it was not very clean but that did not have any effect. I have owned the saw for about 15 years and admittedly did very little to maintain it because it always ran great. Once it started acting up this spring I followed the advice in this forum (which I should have done anyway a long time ago!); I bought a carberator kit, which was actually a whole new carb ($20). I also replaced the air filter, spark plug and fuel filter. When replacing the carb I noticed the fuel line had become brittle so I replaced that also. If you are going to the trouble of cleaning/rebuilding or replacing the carb, you should do the fuel line as well, as it was only a buck or 2. Tough job getting the fuel line through the gas tank housing... After I did all of that it starts on first or second pull and runs as good as new. No carb adjustments were required other than setting the idle. Less than $30 - 35 and I have a saw that runs as good as new. Good Luck
i've been having a similar problem with my mac 3200.i cleaned and rebuilt the carb. and changed out the fuel lines/filter because they were falling apart. i can get it to start, but it stalls if i throttle up. i got it to get up to speed if i very gradually pulled the throttle. i noticed the gas flowing thru the primer bulb, but not the main intake line. could there still be a blockage or could it be a vacuum leak. thanks for any info on what else i can try.
Did you try backing out the high speed screw a little?
i just tried that, it kicked over then stalled again, it's probably out about 2-2 1/4 turns now. i don't see any fuel coming thru the line from the tank to carb. i just made sure the line from the carb. (throttle side) was going into the side of the pr. bulb marked in and the other line to the tank. is this correct? does the return line need to be submerged to work properly?
Here's a trick I learned from running HPLC lines. Cut the line at an angle. ----------/--------------------- ............/ -------/------------------------ But make the angle longer (30 degrees) than pictured. The angle should be shallow enough to thread it through the hole with a little excess. Put the end cut through the hole and carefully pull it through with long needle nose pliers. Some tubing comes precut as shown above.
The return line only has to barely enter the tank. Sounds like you have it routed correctly. Is the fuel filter stopped up?
Hi, I realize this thread is very old, and the last reply was months ago, but I have something similar going on. My boss recently gave me a poulan pro 295 20 saw, and the clutch cover/chain brake was melted from the exhaust. He said it's the second time it happened so he wanted to get rid of it. I figured I could weld an exhaust shield on it to keep it from happening again (I think there was one there originally and it broke off). So I did that and replaced the clutch cover/chain brake it was like $20. The fuel line was ripped so I replaced it, and the carb kit was only $4 so figured I'd do it as well so it was all running good. The carb was VERY simple, one solid, machined pieced of aluminum with a cap on each side. I replaced the gaskets and cleaned it up (wasn't really dirty anyway) and put it all together, still need to replace the air filter. So go to start it and it fires up eventually but doesn't stay running. I decide to start messing with the two screws (I assumed one was low one was high). Got it to start right up and idle fine but under gas it'd die. Eventually got it to where it's running good just by screwing with it. I just wanted to say thanks for the information in this thread because I'm sure I don't have it adjusted perfect so when I run it again I can follow the steps above to properly adjust it. So for about $25 I have a decent saw...
Tags: poulan, chainsaw, starts, Originally Posted, fuel filter, this thread, adjusting carbs, fine tune, have probably, high speed
Help!! I want to repaint the bathroom and I've heard about mildew resistant paint. I've been told this is the best for bathroom use. Can you tell me who makes it and what makes it so great?
You can buy an additive (fungicide) that you mix with your paint. Purchase at any quality paint store in your area. It won't last forever as the fungicide will eventually break down, but it's the best we've got without lead paint or paris green. Opt for a finish designed to be washed easily. Install a vent fan in the bathroom and you probably will end the issue with mildew. Not expensive. Not difficult. My best, Sonnie
Hi there Benjamin Moore and Klitz make some very good Bathroom paints. Thats is what you would look for. H.D. has them and some other good ones. You can also put a small amount of bleach in the paint and it will work for a while. But as stated make sure you add a fan to the room as the moisture will eventually deterioate the paint. Clean the surface good with a mildew killer and prime before painting or else the mildew will come right through the paint.
I've never know Benjamin Moore paints to be available in a Home Depot or Lowes anywhere. I think their standards are higher. Bob, you were right to recommend a mildew killer (fungicide) applied to the area before painting. The most often recommended is bleach, which was mentioned. However, in order for it to be an effective disinfectant, it must be mixed 10% by volume with water and left in WET contact with the substrate for 10 minutes minimum. This is not applicable in painting, nor would I advise adding bleach to paint. Aside from changing the formulated pH balance of the product it would affect the pigment as well. I advise killing the mildew with a safer product such as Consan Triple 20, or another quaternary ammonium compound (often sold as algaecides for swimming pools). They're safer for the user in all respects, less volatile, offer a more buffered pH effect and are effective in the same wet contact period against a larger number of microbes. Put the ceiling exhaust fan in. You'll sleep well. my best Sonnie http://www.sonnielayne.com
Tags: mildew, resistant, paint, before painting, Benjamin Moore, best Sonnie, bleach paint, mildew killer, will eventually, with mildew
We have a Taco 007-F5 cast iron pump for hot water heating. This pump makes noise while it pumps the water through out hot water pipes and radiators. The internal propellor portion is black. Shouldn't this be white? Because when I looked into ordering it, it shows that the propellor (replacement part for cast iron pump) for the cast iron pump is white. Do you think this could be the reason that this pump makes noise? We purged the air from the pipes as per Taco's instructions and the noise does not seem to be caused by trapped air, but is a localized rattling noise coming from the propellor. What should I do?
Check that the impeller has not come lose from the shaft and also check for a lump of solder in the pump.
How old is it ? The impeller bearing might be worn. You can replace the cartridge, but most people find the entire circulator is not much more than swapping a cartridge. I like the idea of replacing the cartridge, it can be done in under a minute if the pump has shut off's near it.
The impeller is discolored due to the boiler water this is normal.
Or it cam as black nylon that particular day :-) Either way it's not the cause of the noise
Is the pump orientation such that the motor is horizontal?
What is the system pressure? It it's low, the pump can cavitate.
Thanks for your help guys! This pump is mounted in line with a vertically oriented pipe above and below it. So the motor seems to be positioned horizontally (I presume) and the inpellor is rotating in the vertical axis. I didn't find beads of solder in the housing. Everyone says that this cartridge can be switched within the minute. Is it bolted inside the pump then? The pump itsself is 80USD and the replacing cartridge seems to be 60USD, so it almost makes sense to simply purchase the whole pump and take the cartridge out of the pump and keep the housing as a spare. I'm not very techy with electronics and do not prefer to redo wiring etc. The shut off valves are nicely located just above and just below this pump, so not much draining necessary.
The system pressure was around 20psi. But I read that it should be closer to 12psi? At either pressure it makes the noise. The pump was installed october 2009.
I read that it should be closer to 12psi? Only when the boiler is cold. 12 is more or less a 'standard' cold pressure. Since the water expands as it's heated, the pressure will follow... 20 PSI is still OK as a high pressure when the boiler is all the way hot, say 170-180 F. If the boiler is cold and showing 20 PSI, that would be considered HIGH pressure, because as the system heats it goes higher...
I'm about to replace the impeller in our TACO 007 F5 water pump. Do I need a special tool for this or should I simply pull on the impeller? this impeller seems pretty tight in the pumphousing. Also, this pump is used to pump water (for heating) through a 1400 Sq-ft home. Is this pump (1/25 HP) big enough? Thanks.
You mean you the entire cartridge... not just the impeller, right? What is wrong with your current impeller/cartridge?? 007-042RP - Taco 007-042RP - Taco Pump Replacement Cartridge TAC007-042RP (for 007CI) Yes, it may be a bit tight to pull out. I had to pry mine out with a screwdriver, but it was a pump that was sitting around for years. I have seen a single Taco 007 pump run an entire 2.5 story 6 zone 5700 sq. ft. apartment building
The impeller is part of the cartridge - not meant to be replaced. The replacement cartridge comes with an impeller permanently mounted to its shaft.
Ivan, I've merged your original thread with your new one... there's no need to start a new thread for a continuing discussion of the same problem.
Well. I found this same pump at Home Depot last week (they only had one of them) and had asked my husband to install it. He still hasn't done it and the noise kept driving me crazy. I could not get the cartridge out of the old or new pump, so instead I shut off the main power to the house. Shut off the water to the pump. Opened up the electronic box, disconnected the wiring. Removed that part of the pump and replaced it with the one I just bought (with a white impeller). Connected the wiring to see if it worked and it makes hardly any noise!!! Just a slight higher pitched spinning sound. Thanks for all your suggestions. Linda
Good for you Linda! Can you talk to my wife please? I've got a few jobs I'd like her to do... You had no problem getting the pressure back into the boiler and the air out, etc?
I watched when my husband purged the system last week, first increase pressure, open up the little air valve thingy and open up the water pipe on the bottom of the system until steady flow. This seemed to work, don't hear bubbles anywhere... Also, the water cutoff to this pump is right above the pump, so not much water was lost when replacing this part. Trooper, good luck getting your wife to do your job! haha
I put in a TACO 007 7 1/2 years ago on a boiler that heats 4 apartments. Switching from Bell Gossett was the best decision I ever made at that place. I went thru an expensive Bell Gossett dinosaur pump about every two years at 2 times the expense of the TACO. Having said that, the TACO is now making noise. I have a spare...I do not want to drain the system like I did when I installed the last one in the Spring. I figured TACO's page or YOUTUBE would have videos on replace the cartrage. I found nothing. My plan is to come back to this thread with a link to a video I do after I swap it out.
Ya know, yer right! Not a single YT vid on changing the cartridge out. Plenty showing pumps mounted wrong with the motor pointing down, but none showing a cart change... not even Big Tony the plumber... gotta love that guy!
I do not want to drain the system like I did when I installed the last one in the Spring Sorry, but unless you have installed isolation valve on both sides of the Taco pump, you will have to drain the system. As far as replacing the cartridge, no video should be necessary. Remove the four cap screws holding the can on the volute, pull out the cartridge (which includes the impeller), install the new cartridge and gasket, and reassemble. But you may want to install isolation valves while you're at it. Your Taco pump or cartridge only lasted since last spring? We're aren't only into winter yet. Maybe you should hold up on accolades for Taco.
My Taco lasted since the Spring of 2005. Now it is 2012. 7 1/2 years. I have a shut of of water before but not after. My plan is to put an oil pan below it and pretend I am Flash Gordon and just swap it fast. Good to know its so simple to swap out.
TACO 007. There are times I feel really handy and grasp how mechanical things work and then there is this TACO. I cannot grasp this pump. I pulled the cartridge out of my spare TACO 007 f5 and am puzzled. There are magnets in the casing that somehow make the impeller turn. The impeller does not turn freely in the cartridge so I am thinking the whole cartridge turns in the casing. In my case that too does not turn 100% freely. ( I have not applied 110v power ). In addition , I would expect a bearing somewhere to hold the cartridge in place . I have a 2nd spare I will pull apart today to see if it acts the same. I tried to load a photo , alas get an exclamation point and an error code.
Try the 'basic uploader', there should be a clicky in the lower right corner of the pop-up box. You may have to do it twice. The photo uploader is 'buggy'. Alternately, set up a free account at Photo and image hosting, free photo galleries, photo editing | Photobucket and upload there. Come back here and place a link to your public album and we can view off-site.
photo try 4. Okay.. now, I bought pumps used for one season was the ebay claim. here is one. I cannot turn the impeller..it does not spin in the cartridge. Not sure if it should or if the whole cartridge should turn together.
Update. 7 years ago when I bought my 1st TACO 007, I thought it best to have a spare. I bought two pumps used for an alleged 30 days when the system was changed to forced air. Anyway, so it was time to use them and BOTH pumps the impeller takes great force to turn. I sprayed one with lub..the other soaked in hot water. No help. So I thought maybe with power on they break lose somehow. I hot wired them, only got a humm. As you may guess... I ordered a NEW cartridge. Both impellers look new as can seen in my photo. Also, in this thread it was asked get an impeller off.. I just pulled and turned counter clockwise and it came off. Its just press fitted. Hope this helps someone else figure these pumps out.
I wonder if it's like leaving gasoline in your lawn mower... go to start in the spring and the carb is all gunked up... maybe the 'stuff' in the water gunked up the works?
okay...NJ ...now you have me thinking I need to grind this cartridge in two.. to see why it failed. I would like to see if there is a bearing in there I read about.. I have never grasped the concept water lubricated.
i believe the bearings are ceramic, and live at each end. Either Taco or Grunfos have a hole in the shaft that directs cooling water to the back of the cartridge. If the impeller is as stuck as you say, even if you get it turning it will be noisy and will fail prematurely. These cartridges get particularly messed up if they have had water in them and get frozen
Freezing is bad. that would explain everything. if the cartridges contain water, and I bought slightly used ones. They would contain water..I stored them in an unheated garage in Michigan, the cartridges would have been frozen for several months a year for seven years.
Tags: replacement, cartridge, taco, pump, cast iron, cast iron pump, drain system, have spare, iron pump, makes noise
Hello there! First Timer here.. an issue around my property that has been bugging me for sometime and I'd like some opinions/feedback on a remedy I want to do, but a most effective economical way of doing it. I've got a gravel driveway that gets overrun with grass/weeds every rainy/winter season. In the summer, I've hit it with Roundup, and then weedeat it, and blow it into my yard area so that its cleaner. But the method I'm more inclined for is salting the ground. Last spring I had gotten a bag of coarse salt from a nearby feed tack store, and I used an walk-behind fertilizer spreader for distributing spreading it out in the area in question. I rather like this idea, but here's the bad the worst of what happened to me; 1)I didn't know that after distributing the salt on the grass for it to die it needs a good lot of water/moisture for it to really work, 2)The spreader I used had the plastic teeth in the hopper that rotate as you push the spreader, and the salt was really rough on the teeth they broke to smithereens. However, I do have a theory, and thats where I hope the community will provide a bit of input as to whether this might be a viable option or if there's another way of skinning this cat..... I would like to do it the same way with the salt spreader, but would a Broadcast type spreader be an effective means of getting my driveway area salted to kill the weeds?? From what I can see in photos that this type of spreader, it seems to flick the material out, rather than like a grinding like I had used previously. Would I be somewhat correct in my theory? Any thoughts?
I'd use one of the weed killers with future control Roundup makes one, I think they call it Max
My gravel driveway is almost .3 mile long and the only area that ever has grass growth is near the house I don't think I've ever spread any salt on it [at least not for weed control] but I've always found brush killer to be the most effective if you can spray it thoroughly in the spring. Applying the weed killer later in the year always seems to be short lived and need frequent reapplication
I'm not a fan of salting. For one, it takes a lot of salt to achieve good control and rain leaches it out of the area and can kill adjoining lawn. And as you've found spreading salt it tough on equipment. A drop spreader has the most control but a happy homeowner model cannot withstand the abuse. Broadcast spreading is fast and easy but it's almost impossible to accurately control the width of spread. I use Glyfos, a glyphosate herbicide. It is the slow acting, root killing part of RoundUp and it's considerably less expensive. You can get it from farm seed/chemical suppliers. When a driveway is out of control with weeds you need to be vigilant. Not all weeds emerge at the same time, and not all seeds germinate at the same time. You may spray and kill what has already emerged but the seeds remain untouched and can sprout the next day. It's not a failure of the herbicide. It's just nature being very good at surviving. You may have to spray once every week or two until you get things under control. Then it may just take spot treatment once a month to keep things under control. Again, It's just nature trying to survive. Every time the wind blows or it rains new seeds are sown and will sprout up in your driveway. Many future control herbicides leave a thin layer on the surface that prevents the germination of new plants. Great for a field or your lawn but the constant crunching and agitation of driving disturbs this layer so it's usefulness is reduced in a driveway. It helps but it's not a foolproof silver bullet. Weeds are like ants and cockroaches. I don't think we will ever eradicate or dominate them and the buggers will out live us all.
on the cheap and friendly note, 10% vinegar kills everything. just like roundup. 2 gallons cost $3+ at sam's. quality backpack sprayer or broadcast sprayer will do. yes, you can use broadcast spreader. it's good for anything chunky or granular.
Tags: grass, gravel, driveway, area that, future control, just nature, most effective, same time, things under, things under control, type spreader, under control
What kind of drill bit do I need to drill a 1-1/4 hole in 5/8 gyprock? I have no scrap so I can't experiment. I have a flat wood bit in this size - will it work?
What you're refering to is known as a spade bit. It will work. I don't think spade bit necessarily make the neatest holes, but sheetrock is not tough to drill, so you should be ok if you go slowly and carefully. Can you tell us more about why you're doing this?
Personally i wouldn't use a spade bit, a hole saw will make a neater looking hole.
Originally Posted by marksr Personally i wouldn't use a spade bit, a hole saw will make a neater looking hole. I agree with Mark that I wouldn't personally use a spade bit. The reason for my asking why you're doing this is to get more info as to what's going on and what's available to you - I've never been in a situation where I had to drill a hole that big in rock. A hole saw would also be my preference.
As a retailer of hardware which would include drill bits obviously I would not use a spade bit either...you'd make a real mess and the bit would be toast. From a drilling standpoint sheetrock is masonry and you have to view bit choices in that light.Masonry bits are always the best choice but there is no masonry bit the size you need. Use a high speed hole saw....not one made only for wood but one made for metal.This type will hold up to drilling sheetrock and will give you a much cleaner hole. Use a variable speed drill and go as slow as you can and still cut. High speed hole saws cost more but you'll do a better job.
Reason=hole is thru a sheetrock porch ceiling under an attic for a PVC emergency air handler drain pipe.
Now that I know, I would only use a hole saw, the spade bit you have will leave and ugly hole in your ceiling. Check with your neighbors and I bet you will find a hole saw among them so that you wouldn't have to buy one yourself (unless you have the disease like the rest of us and live for any excuse to buy a new tool).
You know, for one hole a sharp knife wielded carfully can make a 1 1/4 hole in 5/8 rock. Use a compass to draw the hole or trace around the pipe and carefully cut around the line. Yes it's slower than a drill or saw but it's only one hole.
....and any mistakes in drywall are easily repaired.
You know, the hammer head on my drywall axe is about an 1 1/4.
As a retailer of hardware which would include drill bits obviously I would not use a spade bit either...you'd make a real mess and the bit would be toast. I use spade bits all the time to drill sheetrock , get decent looking holes on the front side , back side might rip out a little but who cares . I have spade bits that are probably 5 years old have drilled dozens of holes in sheetrock , that still work fine for whatever i need . toast after drilling through sheeterock evan if it where the case spadebit is a whole lot cheaper than holesaw ...
Or you could make your own hole saw with a file and a piece of PVC. It's only one hole. Turn it by hand. I'm sure suobs has done the deed by now anyway. Suobs, what did you use?
I gave up and just got into fetal position under the coffee table - I figured, what's a little water on damproof sheetrock?
. . . but seriously, I bought a hole saw! I'll use it anyway to run some conduit thru some walls.
Several of my co workers have seen mango man's comments. We are all glad he's not an employee here. We hate complaints from our customers.
Originally Posted by suobs I gave up and just got into fetal position under the coffee table got any pics? IMO a hole saw is the best choice - ain't it nice to get new tools
Originally Posted by spdavid Several of my co workers have seen mango man's comments. We are all glad he's not an employee here. We hate complaints from our customers. why would I complain about a $4 bit that has drilled dozens of holes. why would a customer complian? its the diffrence between advising customers based on making the highest dollar sale vs the cheapest most effective way to get the job done. I dont expect good advice from the hardware clerk I figure if he knew anything he would be out working the trades making more than min wage , I just hope he can help me find where the item I know I need is kept , but half you guys cant evan do that . no sir we dont have one of those, 10 min later I find it on my own Im drilling holes in sheetrock all the time and I cary a assortmetn of spadebits . keep the hole saws for when there needed you contention that a spade bit will be toast after drilling through 5/8 of basicly chalk shows a complete lack of real world exerpiance
Tags: drilling, hole, sheetrock, holes sheetrock, only hole, Originally Posted, after drilling, after drilling through, best choice, bits obviously, bits obviously would
Hi, I'm fairly experienced in the plumbing arts, but I'm having trouble removing a Kohler pop-up tub drain. It's different from other pop-ups I've seen. There's no linkage attached directly to the trip lever. The lever/overflow pulls right out. I can't remove the linkage that I see in the overflow pipe. On the other end, there's a small flat screw in the top of the drain plug itself, but it almost seems to be decorative. It's flat, and unattached to anything. In the hole beneath the screw is the end of a rod, but it's attached securely somehow. Beneath that, the rod ends in a loop that slips over the end of the rocker arm. There's no way to slip it off. Finally, the plug assembly won't turn because there are ribs in the drain hole that prevent it from doing so. How do I get this out? No help on Kohler's website, and every other site I find only talks about the kind of pop-up I'm familiar with. Thanks.
Ah, I figured it out. I looked at a second tub that was far less used. There's a phillips head screw under the decorative one. It was just so stripped out on the more used tub that I couldn't recognize it. Now I just need to figure out remove that screw.
Well, The drain is fixed, but I couldn't remove the linkage. It seems to be one solid L-shaped piece with no chance of removal, short of going into the wall. That's too bad, because I'd love the replace the whole deal with a lift and turn. This is still a new type of pop-up for me. No spring, no linkage. Just a solid bar.
I'm still kind of curious about this. Is this a common style of linkage? I can't find it in any books or websites. It seems clear from playing both with the end of the linkage in the drain and the end at the lever that the linkage is a solid piece. Is the only way to remove this to open the wall?
Hi there and welcome, You know, Kohler has always been the Cadillac of plumbing fixtures, and has always been the hardest to work on because they are always trying to build a better mousetrap. I am trying to open the archives in this thing they call my brain and I think I remember a tub waste overflow(drain) as you describe vaguely. If you could take a picture or describe it a little better that would help. It sounds like an older drain... Am I correct? Most of the new ones now use either the plunger, spring, or cable type. I will wait for more info if possible.
Sorry I missed your post. I don't have a photo handy, but basically, the linkage running from the overflow area to the drain itself appears to be one solid piece of metal, rather than composed of separate pieces. Except for the screw on piece at the overflow valve where the drain lever attaches. Other that that, there's nothing else to it. Just apparently an L-shaped bar of metal running from the overflow to the drain, so I can't seem to pull it out.
Did anyone ever figure this out? I have the same problem. The overflow has a two prong rod (one longer than the other)....same problem with the drain plug in that the screw is stripped.
I think I have the same drain assembly. I could not remove the stopper, either. However, since the L shape part is flat with no linkage, I could insert the spring snake through the overflow opening to clear the clog. Actually it is easier clearing the clog this way – there is one less corner to deal with. My drain stopper that we all have trouble removing, however, is worn and very unattractive. Does anyone know where to get a replacement part? I looked on Kohler website but could not find any.
Message title says it all, I hate this Kohler drain plug. I don't know much about drain types, but it is part of an old bathroom that looks like it was installed in the late 60's/ early 70's. So my guess is yes, this is an older drain type. I have not been able to get the plug off. If there's a philips head screw underneath the decorative one, It's either so stripped it's now flat or just rusted away. For my part, I just want to clean the pipes. Every few months it drains slow, and I don't want to keep pouring chemicals down the drain. inserting a spring snake through the overflow opening hasn't been able to fix the problem. maybe this is because it's not fully clogged, just running slowly? Here are a few pictures I was able to get: Below: The drain plug with the small flat screw in the top removed. Below: The drain plug up, showing the the ribs in the drain hole that prevent it from turning, and the Rod that ends in a loop that slips over the end of the rocker arm. Below: The lever/overflow removed, showing the solid linkage.
Mine looks just like the bottom pic. Ive been snaking, using baking soda/vinegar, plunging for 2 days. I have a bad feeling that the drain itself is clean, but the piece at the bottom of the linkage (that goes up and down to block off the drain) has come loose from the vertical part of the assembly. I have already removed the drain stopper. Can anyone give me any advice I can't afford a plumber, and really do need to take a shower! Thanks, Mary
This is driving me nuts! I can't, for the life of me, figure out properly remove this drain. If anyone would please shed some light on this, or if you could just tell me how you solved the clogged/ slow drain issue, I would greatly appreciate it!
Tags: remove, kohler, drain, plug, drain plug, always been, been able, Below drain, Below drain plug, deal with
Hello there, I am new to this, so I will try to ask intelligent questions. I am a serious but financially challenged DIY'er. I am painting my Popcorn ceiling garage, and after trying unsucessfully to cover it with a roller, which immediately caused all the popcorn to fall off the ceiling, I was told you can really either 1. Get rid of the popcorn ceiling (real pain in the a__. Or 2. Paint the popcorn with an airless spray painter. I chose to purchase an airless spray painter, since I have numerous additional painting projects lined up over the next year+. Since I am a DIY'er, and not a professional painter, I decided between a Graco Magnum X7, (or XR7, whats the diff?) and the Titan xt290. Both fit my budget, and I think the quality I need or want as well. I saw the forums other answers about both brands, but they compared a Graco SR7 and a titan xt330. The titan xt330 is out of my price range. At any rate, one question I have is whats the better choice between a single piston pump and a double piston pump? I know the double piston pump works with less strain on the motor, thus, longer life span, etc. Is there any other pro's or con's on that issue. Also, the reviews on both are about the same, with a slight edge to Graco, for their past reputation. The Graco is slightly higher in price, but I can find re-furbished units on both units, which all include repacking and all other normal refurbishing techniques. So, can anyone give me a major + or - to either unit. Thanks for the help.....Rich
Welcome to the forums! You should be ok with either one. They're pretty much similar. You might want to check locally and see which one has better part availability although parts should be available for either one, I've not used either unit. Spraying a degraded popcorn ceiling won't eliminate the possibility of the texture coming down. The wetness and weight of the paint can cause the texture to turn loose although it isn't as apt to happen as it will when using a roller.
Driving your vehicle into a car repair shop can be overwhelming when you are not mechanically inclined. Be prepared when you talk to the technician. Explain in detail how your car has been acting and driving. Although a technician may want to hook your vehicle up to a car diagnostic test machine, if he says it's the solenoid, it is important that you are aware that there are warning signs when your transmission's solenoid is going out that you may have noticed.
Hard Shift
Electronic solenoids shift your car. The solenoid may be going out if you notice your car is having a problem shifting from first to second gear. The shifting problem may happen only when your car is cold, and then disappear after it has warmed up. This problem is referred to as a 'hard shift'
Up Shift
Your transmission solenoid may be going out if you notice that your car shifts too soon. The shifting happens when your car begins to pick up speed. The early shifting at a low RPM is not good for your engine. This is referred to as 'up shifting'.
Late Down Shift
When coming off the freeway and slowing down to exit your car is slowing down; however, if your car does not automatically downshift, or it shifts late, it may be a warning that your solenoid is wearing out. Your vehicle may come close to a stall when it comes to a stop sign.
If you are pregnant and find that you have ringworm, you have several treatment options. Before beginning any treatment, though, you should consult with your doctor to confirm that you have ringworm and to discuss treatment options.
Definition
Ringworm is a fungal infection that can affect the skin, scalp or nails. It can be spread from human to human or from animals, such as cats and dogs, to humans. If you contract ringworm during pregnancy, it is not harmful to your unborn baby.
Symptoms
Ringworm appears as a flat, scaly circle on the skin. As the patch grows, the center begins to clear up and all that remains is a ring, as the name implies. You may have only one patch, or several may develop in an area of the skin. The patches may be itchy.
Prescription Medications
Your doctor may prescribe a topical cream containing nystatin and triamcinolone to treat the infection. Apply a thin layer to the affected area twice daily until the rash has cleared. This medication is FDA category C, which means it is not known to cause risks during pregnancy, but they have not been ruled out either.
Over-the-Counter Medications
An over-the-counter cream or ointment containing clotrimazole, such as Lotrimin, may be used to treat ringworm. Apply twice daily to the rash. It is a good idea to continue use for a week or two after the infection clears to prevent reoccurrence. Clotrimazole is FDA category B, meaning there is no evidence of risks to humans during pregnancy.
Herbal Remedies
Although tea tree oil is sometimes used to treat ringworm, it should not be used during pregnancy.
Other Options
If you are hesitant to use medications while you are pregnant, ringworm will eventually clear up on its own. It may take several months, though, so this may not be the best option for you.
Fans of all ages enjoy playing video games on an Xbox 360.
Xbox 360 games become even more interactive when you can record videos of them to share on the Internet. To ensure that your viewers get the most out of your game-play videos, you'll need the highest-quality video possible. Luckily, with video capture devices such as the Dazzle DVD Recorder by Pinnacle Systems, recording your videos is easy.
Instructions
1. Install the Dazzle DVD Recorder software CD. This CD will install the drivers necessary to use the Dazzle DVD Recorder with your computer, as well as the recording software. Make sure to install the correct software and drivers for your operating system, as the disc contains installations for Windows 32-bit systems, Windows 64-bit systems and Macintosh systems. If you're not sure which operating system you have, check your hard drive for your computer's properties.
2. Plug the Dazzle DVD Recorder into a USB port. Check to make sure your software and drivers have installed correctly, and that both the computer and the Pinnacle software recognize the device. If it didn't install correctly, unplug the device and uninstall all of the software and drivers. You can find updated versions of the software that may work better on the Pinnacle website.
3. Decide whether you want to see the game as you record from the TV screen or if you're content to play straight from your computer monitor. Keep in mind that if you choose to play straight from the monitor, there will be a slight time lag that may make playing difficult. However, if you want to play from the TV screen, you'll need additional cables.
4. Set up the Xbox 360. To play on the computer while you record, you'll need to plug the AV cables straight from the Xbox 360 into the ports on the Dazzle and the Xbox 360's power cord into an outlet. To play on the TV screen while you record, plug an AV splitter cable into your TV's AV input and plug your Xbox 360's AV cables into one side of it. On the other side, use a double-ended AV cable to connect the TV to the Dazzle. Make sure the Xbox 360's power cord is also plugged into an outlet.
5. Turn on the Xbox 360, and the TV if you've chosen to use one. Open the Pinnacle capture device software and see if your game is displaying properly. If not, check your setup to make sure everything is plugged in correctly.
6. Choose your preferred file format for recording your videos and where you want to save them by scrolling through the onscreen instructions. The Dazzle DVD Recorder should be selected as the device.
7. Click Start Recording to begin recording. When you're finished, click the button again to stop recording.
Old stock certificates may have value to collectors.
Are you looking at a shoe box of old stock certificates wondering just how much money might be sitting there? Long before electronic trading and individual investment accounts were around to safely hold shares of companies, investors would receive physical stock certificates as proof of their purchases. The possibility that those old stock certificates have any real value, or that the company listed still exists, might be low, but there is a chance, and with a few quick inquiries, can know for sure.
Instructions
Research Old Stock Certificates for Free
1. Search on the Internet to see if the company still exists. If the company is still operating under the name listed, do a web-based stock market quote search. If the company is not operating under the name listed, it may have been acquired by another company or it indeed may have ceased operations.
2. Call a discount or full-service brokerage house and provide the CUSIP number, which is unique to each individual stock certificate, and stock brokerages can use this number to find out exactly the status of the company. Most larger discount brokerage houses will do this search for free, but be sure to ask first.
3. Call a financial library or speak with a librarian who can assist you in searching for the company. The main branch of most public libraries will have information related to any sale, closure or news pertaining to the company you are researching. The assistance is usually free, but there may be a cost if you need any documents printed or photocopied.
Tips Warnings
Even if your old stock certificates are no longer traded and are therefore worthless as shares, they may still hold value to collectors. Scripophily is the hobby of collecting old stock certificates. Depending on the condition and the name of the company, you may be able to sell them to a collector. If they are in good condition, they can also be used as gifts or presents for anyone who might have an interest in the stock market.
One of the largest manufacturers of home plumbing solutions, Moen produces cartridge based faucets for kitchen and bathroom use. This allows a single faucet to control the amount and temperature of the water used. Moen's faucets are durable and well-regarded, but sometimes they need to be replaced. Removing them can be tricky, but with proper instruction it isn't as difficult as it first appears.
Instructions
Removing a Moen Faucet
1. Turn off the water to the faucet. The water supply lines are usually found underneath the sink. Turn the handle on the lines in a clockwise direction to turn off the water.
2. Pry the index plate from the handle with a flathead screwdriver. The plate is decorative and is used to cover the faucet's retaining screw.
3. Unscrew the exposed retaining screw. Pull the handle from the faucet.
4. Remove the bonnet nut that is at the top of the faucet. Use adjustable pliers to turn the nut in a counterclockwise direction.
5. Pull the faucet up and out.
Tips Warnings
If the water supply can't be turned off at the sink, there should be a way to turn it off near the water meter.
Stagger the edges on each row for a tight fit and stable wall.
Caused by severe weather, such as thunderstorms, hurricanes and tsunamis, flooding damages property, disrupts ecosystems and kills people. Smart city planning reduces the impact floods have on society, but individuals should also be prepared for such emergencies. At-risk areas include flood zones, houses near any type of water and areas that see a lot of rain or hurricanes. If you know your house or property is at risk of flooding, creating a wall of sandbags will give you peace of mind and protection from small floods.
Instructions
1. Acquire or make bags of a suitable material, such as plastic, burlap or plastic cloths. To make the bag, fold a 36-by-12-inch piece of heavy duty material in half to make it 18 inches by 12 inches and sew three sides with a sewing machine.
2. Use a scoop or small shovel to fill the bags half full with sand so that each weighs 35 to 50 pounds. You can also supplement the sand with soil or use a 10-to-1 ratio of sand and soil to cement mix.
3. Close the opening of the bag with string or duct tape just above the sand line.
4. Tuck the leftover material under the sandbag as you set it into place. Place the sandbags so that there are no gaps between them.
5. Sprinkle the bags with water, if you used cement mix.
Tips Warnings
Inspect sandbags prior to rain and replace any worn or frayed bags. Sunlight will deteriorate them.
If you do not have anything to close the top, tuck the top under the bag and use the bag's weight to hold it in place.
Place the fold upstream so that the water does not push it from under the bag.
Sandbags work best in conjunction with other flood deterrent techniques.
Always be aware of rising floodwaters and evaluate whether or not you should evacuate.
Wrinkles are often caused by aging of the skin, which is inevitable. This natural process can be accelerated by factors such as genetic influences, sun exposure and smoking. Wrinkles usually appear on areas that have received the most sun exposure, including the face, neck, the backs of the hands and the tops of the forearms. Wrinkle treatments may reduce the appearance of fine lines, but deeper wrinkles may require more aggressive methods, such as chemical peels and face lifts.
Instructions
1. Stop smoking. Smoking accelerates aging and may cause premature sagging and wrinkling of the skin. Smoking makes the blood vessels in the outer layers of your skin narrower. It also damages collagen and elastin, which give strength and elasticity to skin.
2. Apply sunscreen with a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 15 every day. Sun exposure is a major cause of skin aging, which leads to wrinkles. Avoid sun exposure when possible and wear protective clothes and hats. When you purchase skin care products, choose those with built-in sunscreen to enhance sun protection.
3. Use moisturizers frequently to prevent dry skin, which can shrivel your skin cells and create wrinkles.
4. Apply anti-wrinkle products on the affected areas. The way the product improves your skin depends on the active ingredient in it. Retinol has antioxidants that neutralize the free radicals that damage skin cells and cause wrinkles. Hydroxy acids remove the upper layers of skin and stimulate the growth of smoother skin. Coenzyme Q10 regulates energy production in cells. Copper peptides improve your healing process, stimulate collagen production and intensify the effects of antioxidants. Kinetin retains moisture in the skin and stimulates collagen production. Tea extracts contain antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds. Anti-wrinkle creams and lotions are classified as cosmetics, so they are not evaluated for effectiveness by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and may not produce the results you want.
5. Eat foods that contain antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds. These include blueberries, omega-3 eggs, tomatoes, fish oils and sunflower seeds.
6. Consult a doctor to discuss more aggressive measures if your wrinkles run deep. There are many procedures that you can undergo to combat wrinkles. Chemical peels, dermabrasion, laser resurfacing and microdermabrasion exfoliate upper layers of skin and uncover the smooth skin underneath. Non-ablative laser resurfacing stimulates the production of collagen without removing the epidermis. Botox injections paralyze muscles that create the wrinkles. Filler injections increase the volume of skin and flatten wrinkles. Surgical procedures such as face lifts may also be discussed with your doctor.
If you've ever wanted to record a video game moment of triumph or had the urge to record your own game footage for others to watch, you need to capture what is on the screen. If you have a PS2, you can use Dazzle DVD Recorder to record your PS2's video and audio output. The Dazzle DVD Recorder comes with the hardware to plug your PS2 into the USB port of a computer, and the software to record and burn your DVD.
Instructions
1. Install the Pinnacle InstantDVD Recorder software on your computer. Insert the disk in the drive and follow the on screen directions. If the window does not come up, click the Start button, select Computer and double click on your optical drive.
2. Power off your PS2 and unplug the PS2 composite AV cables from the back of your TV. The connectors are yellow, red, and white.
3. Plug the composite AV cables into the Dazzle DVD recorder device. Make sure the colors on the cable connectors match the colors on the jacks.
4. Plug the Dazzle DVD recorder hardware into an open USB port on your computer.
5. Power on the PS2.
6. Double click the InstantDVD Recorder icon on your desktop.
7. Click the radio button next to Let the Wizard guide me and click the Next button.
8. Select Dazzle DVC100 on the Select a video source drop down menu. The video feed from the PS2 should appear in the window on the right side of the screen. Adjust the slider left or right to change the volume. Click the Next button.
9. Select your DVD burner from the drop down menu titled Detected DVD Recorder and click Next.
10. Click the radio button next to the menu selection. You can select no menu, or have the disc display a menu at a specific interval. If you select the menu option you can change the number of minutes, select a menu background, and a menu style. Click Next.
11. Set the number of minutes you want to record in the Set recording time box. Select the quality of the video recording. The better the quality, the larger the file size will be. Press the Start Recording button to begin recording from your PS2.
Replacing the thermostat in a Lumina APV does not take a considerably large amount of money or even a long time to fix, but it is an important component in keeping the engine working properly. If a thermostat stops working, it affects the engine's ability to regulate the temperature of the engine block. The end result is the failure of the engine due to warping. This will cost thousands to repair, and depending on the age of the Lumina, it can lead to taking the vehicle to a junkyard.
Instructions
1. Locate the thermostat housing by tracing the upper radiator hose from the radiator to the location where it connects to the APV's intake manifold. The hose connects to the thermostat housing.
2. Remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing by squeezing the two tabs on the radiator hose clamp together with a pair of pliers. With the tabs squeezed together, pull the hose off the thermostat housing.
3. Remove the thermostat housing from the intake manifold of the Lumina by taking off the two bolts that hold it in place. Use an adjustable wrench or 10 millimeter boxed wrench. Lift the thermostat housing off the intake manifold to access the thermostat gasket and the thermostat.
4. Pull the old thermostat out of the intake manifold and place a new one into the intake manifold. Submerge the spring, located on the thermostat, into the radiator fluid inside of the intake manifold.
5. Lift the old thermostat gasket off the intake manifold and put a new one in its place. The gasket must remain dry throughout the installation process.
6. Place the thermostat housing on top of the thermostat gasket and bolt it back into place.
7. Squeeze the two tabs on the radiator clamp together and slide the hose back onto the thermostat housing. Secure the hose in place by releasing the tabs.