I own a Whirlpool Side by Side Refrigerator/Freezer model #ED5PHAXMQ00. I've had it for 4 years and as of a few days ago, it no longer makes ice. I do not see any ice cubes in the ice maker. I'm not sure if water is flowing to the ice maker, but water does dispense from the water dispenser on the outside of the freezer. I unplugged the entire refrigerator/freezer unit, let it defrost for 24 hours, plugged it back in, let it get back to normal and still no ice--same situation. Motor works well on ice cube dispenser on freezer door, but unit not making ice (ice bucket in door empty and also no ice, water or nothing around the ice making unit) and I checked the plastic water line on the back of freezer (unplugged the plastic tubing fitting) and no air was blocking it. All my food items are nice and cold though. I don't feel or see any water or ice in the freezer at all. I also removed the icemaker assembly unit and the trays around the ejector area were dirty and the lining appears to be peeling off on the tray. Any suggestions as to what parts might be bad? I also noticed today that the water pressure coming out of the water dispenser on the outside of the fridge is very slow. What's it like to have no icemaker and to rely on huge bags of ice from the grocery store? I know icemakers are the most problematic part of a refrigerator/freezer unit but I was wondering how long do you all think a refrigerator/freezer unit last? I ask because I wonder if it's worth it to spend $300 fixing this problem or putting that money towards a new or high quality fancy used unit? Your fridge probably has a dual water valve on the back of the fridge where the water supply line hooks to. One for dispenser, the other for ice maker. An easy quick check of the icemaker valve would be to swap the 2 leads from each solenoid. In other words, take the leads from one solenoid attach them to the other one vice-versa. That way, when you push in on the water dispenser switch it will send power to the icemaker valve you can see if the icemaker gets water. If it does, icemaker is probably bad. If still no water, valve needs replaced. Don't forget to swap wires back to correct solenoids. Thanks for your reply. I did your test and the icemaker is getting water, so the icemaker itself is probably bad. I was browsing through my local online classifieds and found an ad for a 6yr old side by side Whirlpool refrigerator with a bad a/c compressor for $50. The ad also states that the icemaker is only 6 months old and that the seller will consider selling the icemaker separately probably for $25. I asked the owner for the model number of the fridge, which is ED2GTQXKQ00 and he said the icemaker model number is 2181913. I went to the repairclinic.com website and plugged in his model number frigde and got a different icemaker assembly part number but the same exact icemaker control module part number than my fridge (whirlpool ED5PHAXMQ00). I looked at pictures of his fridge in the ad and on other websites and the main difference seems to be the icemaker itself. His has a bucket underneath and the icemaker has an arm sensor. His does NOT have an in door ice bucket like mine does. I'm thinking that if the problem with my icemaker isn't the module, do you all think his entire icemaker assembly will work in my unit assuming it also has a flat plug? Can I make this work with my in-door ice bucket or will I have to remove it and use his ice bucket that does underneath the icemaker? I think you would be better off spending the extra money getting the icemaker that is designed for your fridge. Some mount different use other sensors to control the ice making process. Also, the wiring might not be compatable. Does your fridge have the infra red sensor inside the freezer door? Thanks for the tip. Yes, my fridge has the infrared sensor in the door. There should be a tech sheet be hind the kick plate and stuck to the bottom of the fridge. This will give you instruction on test the inferred sensor. Here is a link on test your ice maker. If you require parts here is a place you can get Whirlpool parts.
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Im trying to pick some laminate flooring to go in some extra bedrooms and a hallway, all of which get high traffic with chairs scooting over them etc. Im looking at various laminate types, some range from 99 cents/sqft to over $4/sqft and thickness from 6mm to 10mm. What qualities should I look for ? Ive heard that laminate will warp and buckle if water is spilled on it and the water gets underneath, but the thicker varieties will not warp as bad. help ? For example, Home Depot currently has some laminate they are calling oak estates ? Ive never heard of this brand, but it looks nice enough for my needs. Its 6mm and a light-colored wood texture. Im wondering how well this stuff will stand up to the average household traffic? Probably better than real wood, dont you think? That sounds a little bit thin. I would look for an 8 millimeter laminate as the locking system will be stronger. As far as traffic, wood holds up just as well as laminate, laminate is just more dent resistant. Also wood can be refinished, and laminate cannot. If you stick the stuff over 2.75 you are pretty safe. Since there are so many things that go into making this type of floor that is not listed on the box, price can serve well as marker for quality. Anything above 3.75 you are usually paying for a look and not an actual quality difference. Though the looks dramatically improve in that 4.50+ range. If you go cheap you need to buy from a company you trust will resolve issues if they arise. I put a 2.00 lam in my kids bedroom and it was fine for that. I also understand the limitations of cheap laminates and have no unrealistic expectations of there performance. So i wouldn't use the cheap ones in a higher traffic area or spill zone. Here is my new selection. The reviews seem pretty good. Anyone care to comment on this stuff Dream Home - Charisma 7MM Bolivian Mahogany Laminate Originally Posted by BitShift Here is my new selection. The reviews seem pretty good. Anyone care to comment on this stuff Dream Home - Charisma 7MM Bolivian Mahogany Laminate Not too bad!. Take a look at these Kraus deals if you get a chance, Ive heard good things about Kraus laminate flooring too. Kraus Laminate Deals Let us know what you decide on.
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Iwould like to put textured paintable wallpaper over the paneling in my hallway and kitchen. Would I have to put wallpaper liner over the paneling first to bridge the grooves, or will the textured wallpaper take care of bridging the grooves on its own? My goal is not to have any grooves showing through after I paint. Install the liner first. PWG: could she skim coat the grooves first instead? if so, that might be easier than hanging liner. or.........if the paper she's using is the kind that's a thin spongy material and flat on the back (as opposed to the anaglypta kind that's the reverse texture on the back), would that hide the grooves? just wondering for my own info........ No, skim coating is a hassle, and requires 2 coats as mud generally shrinks as it dries. And the average prepaste texture paper will not span the grooves sufficiently. Liner paper solves it all in one step. Plus it provides a much better surface to hang on. Liner for this application is usually hung by 'crosslining' or 'railroading', meaning you install the liner horizontally, not vertically. I am working on this same thing in some of my rooms, right now my bedroom. This house was built in 1969 and they loved fake wood paneling back then. Most of ours is the good kind with the deeper grooves. I put down two coats of joint compound in my grooves but even so, after papering and it then drying, the paper sunk into the darn grooves, forcing me to do a quick wallpaper removal. Thank God it was just one wall. I am also wanting to do wallpaper in my family room, as we just prefer the paper and hate the grooves left showing after painting over. You say that you should hang this wallpaper liner crossways instead of vertically? How does that guarrantee that the grooves still won't show afterward? I don't want to waste my time and money unless I know 100% this will work. I read another article where a guy said they had used the liner and it still let the grooves show through. As hubby and I had decided to start lining the family room also, we really need to know. The walls in this family room are more than one panel high and it was covered with moulding where it joins. As for our bedroom, sigh, no drywall under the paneling means I do not have much choice as to what can be done unless I want to remove all the wall and replace it with drywall. How hard is that? It doesn't sound hard. Shoddy workmanship I noticed was in the moulding in most of the rooms. Where they joined the moulding, especially in the corners, is highly noticeable as it does not join properly even though mitered, and where they joined it along the length of the wall was poorly done. When liner is installed, it is important to make sure to sweep the material in place in the same directions of the groove. If you go across the grooves, it can push it into it, leaving another groove. Sweep with the grooves, and use a liner suited to your particular application. For deep grooves, we use Cavalier's Heavy-Duty Non-Woven Liner. You can put 1/4 inch drywall over the existing paneling. The only problems will be outlets and wall switches. For those, you can buy box extensions to bring the boxes even with the drywall. It'd would be worth it to have a pro come in to at least mud the joints, if not install the drywall.
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I had a basement waterproof company come in about 6 years ago and jackhammer a trench around the foundation and install perforated pipe which all hooks into 2 sump pits in different areas of the house. Well we just had a doozy of a storm and I went downstairs to look at the sump pits and I noticed in both pits the water was over the sump pumps. Last year was the last time we had a substantial storm where the pits filled up and the pumps were fine and took the water out. But today both pumps did not pump. It's strange that both pumps would both not work at the same time when they are in different pits at different locations around the house. The pumps are Stevens S5710 1/2 hp. I don't know anything about these pumps. My guess is that the float (wherever it is got gooked up with dirt that was in the pits for years. The pumps rarely get used, maybe once or twice a year, so I don't see over usage as a cause. Any ideas ? Thanks for your time. Oh .... electricity is fine .... it's not anything that simple. I also took one of the pumps out and put it in my pool and hooked it up to see if it would work and it was just dead. No noise no nothing. I don't know much about that pump but it looks like the on/off level control is that tube on the side of the pump. That could be the source of the problem. I can't tell from the picture on the website if it an electronic or manual type control. The website says it has a 7yr warranty. Are the pumps that old? Maybe Steven's could help you out. Originally Posted by pumpguy I don't know much about that pump but it looks like the on/off level control is that tube on the side of the pump. That could be the source of the problem. I can't tell from the picture on the website if it an electronic or manual type control. The website says it has a 7yr warranty. Are the pumps that old? Maybe Steven's could help you out. I called Stevens today and left a message but they haven't called back. The pumps are 6 years old so they are under warranty. But having 2 pumps go out at the same time seems odd. That tube on the side seems to have nothing in it. I took off the top of the pump and you still can't definitively see if there's anything in that tube. My guess is the switch in the pumps went. Somehow that tube on the side must send some type of pressure reading which activates the switch. That's just a totally uneducated guess on my part from reading up the last couple of days on sump pumps. Hopefully Stevens will get back to me. Maybe they have kits I can buy that can fix this problem. What annoys me is that these pumps probably get used once or twice a year. Very rarely do my sump pits fill with water. You would think an expensive pump like this would be more durable. Having the pumps run so little is not really a good thing. What if you only started your car twice a year.....maybe it would start, maybe not. Best to run them once and awhile. Is there any way to fill the sump pit w/o the water backing up into the perforated pipe around the foundation ? It would take a long time to fill that pit to check the pump. Maybe just disconnect the pump every time which is a pain, but I guess I have no choice. I spoke to Stevens and they feel the problem is the switch. They are sending me new covers that have the switch in them. I did try the pump again in the pool and it finally worked. Stevens seems to feel the the connect/ disconnect of the power caused the switch to kick in, but they thought the switch was worn. I told them when I put the pump in the water I took off the check valve and then it worked. When I put the pump in the water the first few times the check valve was still connected to the pump. They still feel it was a worn switch. My question ..... could a pump not work because of a check valve ? I would expect the motor to kick on and not pump water if the check valve was faulty. I never heard the motor kick on when I had the pump in the pool the first few times I tried it.. Also, when I took off the check valve and turned it upside down the flap opened up easily. There was no sticking at all. My guess is that the check valve is fine and what Stevens told me was accurate. You agree ? Everything is covered under warranty, so no additional cost to me which is great ! That's great that they are sending you the parts to fix your pumps. The pump should really turn on before it starts filling the drain tile pipes but the switch you have on those pumps probably can't be adjusted to turn at a lower level. Unless the check vakve was upside down or the flapper was broken and jamming the opening it should have worked. The switch always seems to be the weak link in any sump pump. The 6yrs you got out of them is a pretty good life. Originally Posted by pumpguy That's great that they are sending you the parts to fix your pumps. The pump should really turn on before it starts filling the drain tile pipes but the switch you have on those pumps probably can't be adjusted to turn at a lower level. Unless the check vakve was upside down or the flapper was broken and jamming the opening it should have worked. The switch always seems to be the weak link in any sump pump. The 6yrs you got out of them is a pretty good life. The pump turns on with 12 of water and shuts off with 3 of water according to the specs. The weep holes in the pit are 10 up, so no can do. I've learned a lot about pumps the last couple of days. Thanks for your help pumpguy !
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I have a model 38052 Toro 521 snowblower - Ser. # 5007202 Date of manufacture 1985 I recently loss the use of this snowblower when the auger was suddenly jammed with a hidden obstacle. Prior to that it worked great. Now the auger and impeller do not turn. The self propelled function still works in all gears. Can someone please give me the fix? I thank you in advance. It sounds like a shear pin which fits in the auger shaft. But if the impeller also does not spin , It could be a broken key way on the impeller shaft a much tougher fix. On the site below I put the model # and serial number into toros search and was able to retrieved a diagram where you can zoom in to see where shear pin goes. I would look into part # 5 if the impeller is not working. https://www.shoptoro.com/Comergent/e...lterisManuals .If you have more questions feel free to ask. Good luck stick1 It sounds like you may have taken out the gears in tha auger gearbox. If neither the auger or impeller will turn, that is what it most likely is. Expensive repair. The parts alone run about $180 plus the gear lube, plus labor if you have it done at a shop. Labor for that repair can cost $300 or more. Originally Posted by indypower1 It sounds like you may have taken out the gears in tha auger gearbox. If neither the auger or impeller will turn, that is what it most likely is. Expensive repair. The parts alone run about $180 plus the gear lube, plus labor if you have it done at a shop. Labor for that repair can cost $300 or more. I believe if the (auger gears) were blown the impeller would still spin If both the Auger Impeller won't turn as your post says,, Have you checked the belts yet?? Maybe just a broken belt... Check it out let us know.... Roger Originally Posted by Stick1 I believe if the (auger gears) were blown the impeller would still spin If they were just stripped, the auger would still turn. If one gear is broken, the broken part could wedge and lock up the whole thing. I have seen many gear blow out the side of the gearcase.
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So I asked my father-in-law to borrow his yard machine tiller. He said if I can fix it, it's mine. The last time it was used was over a year ago and the gas had been left in the tank. We were both confident that the carburetor needed to be cleaned or replaced, so that's where I began. After removing the carburetor I took it to a local shop where they cleaned it and replacement all the parts for it. They said with 100% confidence that it would work after replacing them...wish that were true. After putting it back together, it still wouldn't start. It definitely sounds like it wants to turn over, but won't. I took the carburetor back off and noticed some black gunk in the bolt that holds it on (not sure of the correct term). I sprayed everything out again with carb cleaner, cleaned out the gas tank and fuel line with an air hose and tried again. I also replaced the spark plug. Still nothing. When I removed the carb again I noticed the same blank gunk in the bolt. I'm a novice when it comes to working on engines and really don't know where to go from here. I'm guessing the gunk is the reason why it's not running, but I'm not sure where it's coming from. Any thoughts or other things to check? The engine model number is 0hh60. i don't know where it's coming from, but it may be the problem. Sounds like maybe the carb wasn't cleaned well or maybe a fuel line is turning to goo on the inside. I think the black goo is the O ring on the nozzle, the shop probably soaked the carb in carb cleaner without removing the nozzle and the cleaner destroyed the O ring, remove the nozzle, replace the O rings, clean the bowl nut, don't miss the tiny hole at the top near the threads and it will probably be ok. Have a good one. Geo Thanks, Geo. I've taken the carb apart a couple of times and cleaned each part individually, including replacing the O-Ring after the bowl was dry. The stuff that's in the bowl nut looks like dirt covered in oil. There's enough in it to fill the nut. After cleaning, reassembling and putting it back together I tried starting it again. Once it didn't work I took it apart again and noticed the sludge was back. I think you might be right about the fuel line. I checked the bowl nut after work and could tell that whatever gunk was in it was now dry. Looks like rubber to me. Guess I'll replace the hose and see what happens. Definitely found where the rubber was coming from. I was able to pop this piece out and out came this frayed rubber washer along with a lot of small pieces. Is this the O-ring you were talking about, Geo? Yes it is and there is another one stuck up in the carb from the top of the nozzle, I bend a tiny hook on a paper clip to get it out, it can be a pain to remove because it is usually falling apart. Put some lube on the top one when you reinstall or it will peel off the nozzle and don't forget to reclean the bowl nut. Have a good one. Geo Also if you have a Harbor Freight close you can get a box of assorted for about $7 which will last a life time, small engine shop charge about $2 each. Thanks, Geo. The one in the carburetor had disintegrated...probably where all the junk was coming from in the first place. I'm picking up the parts today and I'll give it another go. Make sure all of the top O ring is removed, it can be hard to see up in there but if even a tiny piece remains it will block the new one from seating properly and you will have mystery problems. Have a good one. Geo I got the old ones out and replaced them, still wouldn't start. I had my brother in law come over to see what he thought. He noticed that the primer ball didn't seem to be working correctly. We could get it to start up for about 2 seconds after pressing the ball over 10 times, but then it would die. I went and picked up a new one, installed it and now it runs fine. What a process. On the old carb, you must have the outer airfilter adapter screw in place for it to prime as the screw goes into the primer circuit, if it is missing, it will not prime because the primer pressure goes through the screw hole and not to the bowl. Have a good one. Geo
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Moved into a brand new house last January equiped with a natural gas supplied tankless water heater (Rinnai model) which also supplies the radiant heating throughout the house. The vent is a horizontal.No complaints so far either on the hot water supply or with the heating, that is until last week. The warning sensor has now started to go off randomly either when I take a shower or use the diswasher. The error messages are either ''power interruption during bath fill'' or ''flame failure''.... I have to do is a reset, however, this should not be happening. The vent does not seem to be obstructed'. I've read all the info on this sytem but I don't dare taking it apart to investigate the problem since the whole thing is still under warranty by the builder, and they will come and look at it ( after much insistance on my behalf). My question is, (so not to look like a complete idiot when the plumber finally shows up), has anyone experienced this type of problem and what was the probable cause. Because the two error messages seem unrelated to each other this is throwing me off as to what the problem could be. thanks don't worry about looking like an idiot, all the pressure's on the plumber to look knowledgeable. you're the customer, you're supposed to be clueless. do you have a manual? it has a list of error codes and possible causes. the flame failure is a fairly common code and can be caused by quite a few problems. what size is the gas line supplying the unit? it must be 3/4 or larger. when you say the vent is horizontal, does it just run a few feet and terminate on the outside or does it run for quite a distance? if it runs for a longer distance, was a condensation tee and line installed? there are gas pressure adjustments for high and low fire possitions that can cause this problem if they're not in spec. nothing you should be messing with though. if it's under warrantee just have the plumber come out and politely ask if you can watch. these are a fair bit more complicated than the old style heaters and i'm sure you'll learn a few things. my service manuals are in my truck. i'll look at them tommorow and see if i can help you any more. paul
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PLEASE HELP!!!!! Posted a repair question back in Sept., with no luck of even one reply. I realize people are busy, but this is ridiculous......need help with this ASAP..don't want my kids to get injured if the banister ever decides to let loose and come down. Any info that anyone may have will be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!! We are in the middle of painting the room with the staircase and would like to finish completely. THANX!!!!!!! Hello Just picked up on you note..If you still need help let me know..I have some questions before we try to fix this.. Thank you for answering!!! Yes, I still need help...husband is in the military, so we can only fix so much at one time. Will look for any questions you may have for me soon. kimkat, What type of railing is on your stairs? What parts are loose? Are the pieces screwed together or is everything glued? How old is the handrail assembly? A detailed description would be helpful. Let us know, The Timber Tailor Hello Wood railing? Is it loose at top? bottom? middle? Does it mount to the stair tread or on a bottom rail? How Long is it between Post? Paint or stain? Does it attach to the wall? Is this just a hand rail attached to the wall? do you have tools to work with? Have you ever done anything like this before? Just want to know where to start to help you make this repair. I see you are very patient. Hope we can get this done with your help..... The railing is wood, and is approximately 10-11 years old. My newel post is loose and is attached to a small part of the wall at the bottom. The spindles are all loose some are glued and some are nailed down from the previous owners of the house. The bottom of the spindles are attaced to a long piece of wood which sits on the wall and the wall is built up at an angle from the living room floor to the second floor. I'll try to get my husband to help me explain this better to you if you have no idea what I am talking about. Thanks! HELLO Great job....Can you get under the house at the the newel post to see how it has been fastend. To do the job right you should remove each peice first the top hand rail then each spindel then the bottom rail now work on the newel post if it will come out easly this is the best way...start with the newel post remove every thing all nails, screws and clean all the loose wood chips out to the hole..Dry fit the post and see how is best to secure it, where you can instll screws, ore even a bolt, if you use a bolt you need to drii a larger hole for the washer nd bollt head and nut fill them later... use 'Gorilla' glue it is the best I have found for newel post..Make sure it is plum in both directions and let dry... Next use a good carpenters glue and install the bottom rail on the wall with screws in the hole where the spindels will go.. now get help and start setting in the spindels with glue in the bottom...put glue on top of each spindell and set the top rail glue each end to the posts and or wall preddrill a hole at each end and add a screw that is long enough to go into the post 1 1/2 both ends check for plum and let dry.....when it is dry clean every thing fill the holes and refinish....The most important part is the newel post make sure it is set tight and plummmm Will check to see if we can get under the newel post to see how it is fastened.......THANK YOU!!!!!! Your instructions are fabulous..if we have any problems I'll certainly let you know.
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Hello, I just bought a house that has radiator heating throughout the house except for a small addition the previous owners had put on in 1997. The two rooms (bathroom and sitting room) are heated with steam baseboard heat. I have a couple of questions: 1. What would it cost roughly, to connect the rest of the first floor to steam baseboard instead of the radiators? Would this be worthwhile? I personally like the radiators but since this is my first house i am not sure what heating system is most efficient. My guess is that they are the same since they will both run off the same boiler and it turns into what is more aesthetically pleasing. My father-in-law's friend says all he would do is disconnect the main pipe to the radiators and would connect the new baseboard to the existing pipe from the sitting room. To me it sounds like a half-a@$ job to leave half the steam radiator pipes in the house, not being used. Also there is asbestos insulation over these pipes. 2. If i keep the radiators, what is the best way to clean them both inside and outside. Also, what kind of paint should i use for the metallic radiator covers? I'm not sure I understood the proposed modification but I would advise not to make changes. More steam systems are thrown out of whack by modifications than you can imagine. One of the first things that you would have needed to do is calculate the output from the radiators and then you would know how many feet of baseboard it would have taken to equal each radiator. You would have probably been shocked. Usually it takes over 10 feet of baseboard to match a 3 foot long radiator. Then the piping changes would all have had to be done with black pipe. Cut and threaded on site. I would strongly recommend leaving the system alone and only repair what goes wrong. The radiators and the covers can be painted with any paint suitable for metal. I usually prefer to see a spray paint on the radiator because it puts on a thinner film. If you like the color, you can use the high temp aluminum color paint from the auto store. It just looks natural on a radiator to me. The covers do not get that hot compared to the radiator and you can use any paint on them that you like. Clean them up with a wire brush. As for the asbostos. Leave it alone. It is harmless until it is flying around the room from being knocked off the pipes without using the proper technique and safety measures. Ken
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Hi folks! I recently purchased a 6 year old home with an irrigation system. The system never worked because there was too much sediment coming from the well and the home owner decided not to use the sprinklers. I had a sediment filter installed shortly after moving in and the irrigation system worked OK. However, after every other cycle or so, water would just rush out of my Febco 765 PVB. If I shut the water supply and restart it the PVB seemed to work again and the sprinkler system would go through another couple of cycles but then the problem would come back. I thought that the PVB was at fault so I replaced my Febco 765 for a Toro 53300 PVB. Alas, I am still having the same problem with the Toro. I already have a pressure tank between the well and the sediment filter that was installed at the same time as my whole house filters (sediment, aeration and softener). When the sprinkler system shuts down, however, I always hear the aeration filter running. Would that have anything to do with my PVB problem, possibly creating low pressure on the filter side of PVB? If so, how would I fix it? It sure sounds like a pressure problem. It is doing what it is supposed to do when there is low pressure. Was the device tested by a qualified backflow tester? This is kind of important for a couple of reason that we do not need to discuss now. The main purpose of testing would be to actually test the loading on the spring that holds the vent in place. This would tell you if the valve itself was actually working as it should. Once this is determined, then look at pressures on both sides of the valve. From reading what you wrote, it dumps water, you reset the pressure by shutting of the supply. This will allow some water to enter the sprinkler side, you then repressurize, and everything works as it should.Your pressure would be more or less uniform throughout your system. Bump pressure up, PVB doesn't see pressure drop or loss, works like it should. Pressure drops on supply side for any reason below sprinkler side, water dumps. I'd look at the filter you have in place and I'd also look at the flow rating of the sprinklers. There is a great site mentioned here from time to time on yard sprinkler systems. http://www.jessstryker.com/ Probably the best site for yard sprinklers on the internet. You may want to look at this site for some ideas. Good luck with your project and more questions, ask away and someone will help you. Whoa! Jess's site is amazing! After spending a bit of time reading up on PVB's, I see that mine is installed about 10 feet lower than some sprinkler heads and valves. Could be my problem right there! I know who did the original install so he's getting the first call tomorrow morning! Thanks for the help and I'll post the final resolution when I get it.
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Good morning again, In a recent incident (no pun intended), a tree jumped out from the woods and dented the rear bumper on my wife's Toyota. The body shops all say that bumper replacement is the only option ($$$$). There are a few companies around here (as recommended by some friends) that specialize in bumper dent removal and refinishing (evidently they pop out the dent, fill if needed and repaint). It makes sense, but is this a valid option? Of course, the cost is what intrigues me, but I don't want to flush cash down the toilet either. Thanks a bunch! those plastic bumber covers are only semi rigid...so it has a crater in it, correct? i used a heat gun once and popped one out for a friend on a 2000 windstar. Yeah...the paint remained cracked but I actually got it to pop out pretty uniformly and with the crater gone, your eyes are not drawn to the damaged area so easily. you might try it and see if you can live with it before you spend any money on it. take your time and warm it slowly, keep the heat moving as you can cook the paint if you hold it too close or too still...gently begin pushing from behind...you'll be able to feel it as it becomes pliable...until you have the whole area pushed back out. I used a bunch of rags over my fist to push as the plastic gets pretty warm. Dave, I'm sure one of the auto experts will be here soon, but heck, I've fixed small dents and dings in plastic bumpers all by myself. I was lucky and the creased/cracked paint was barely noticable. I have seen several magazine articles about doing it yourself as well. I wouldn't hesitate to check into these repair services, but it would depend on the extent of damage to the steel underneath, I would think. Heck as a matter of fact, I messed up a ladies Camry rear bumper, and the dealer body shop repaired and repainted the cover, instead of replacing the whole thing. It all depends on how bad it is and good you want it to turn out. They are repairable if the dent just needs popped out and filled. There's material for that type of repair that you could do yourself. It about like a Bondo type of repair. If it's an older car or one that less than perfect doesn't bother you, an average person could do a decent job on it. The repair on the bumper isn't near what the painting of it is though. If you do all the priming, flex additive and what ever paint you need, it can all add up. If it's a white pearl tri coat, only someone who is very good at it will get it to match. You run into a problem with a DIY job since you have no place to go with the leftover paint, cost of the gun/equipment, place to do it, etc.. You can get it premixed in an aerosol can, but that is a compromise in quality. You can always rationalize doing it yourself with hey, it'll get hit again sometime, anyway. Hope this helps, Bob Thanks for the rapid replies!! I do not intend to do it myself, but I am looking at some of the independent people who do it for a living (not the big body shops). It sounds like it is doable, and in the hands of a professional, hopefully it will look good (they claim to match the paint and finish it up as good as new). The difference is several hundred dollars between dent repair and bumper replacement! Y'all have convinced me it is at least looking into. Thanks Have you actually priced bumper covers, Dave; some are not that pricey, although you would need to paint them. Here's example (you didn't say year model, but here's an '01 Camry): http://www.ezbodyparts.com/buy/index...AMRYyear=2001
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Is there anyone that has ideas on the best way to cover paneling either by painting/papering over it/or a paint finish that will work with the groves on the paneling. The room is terribly dark in this old farmhouse with dark paneling.....also one of the rooms has the masonite siding boards inside.....also was interested to know what finish is used to appear like suede? Thanks so much, this is a great forum.....with fast replys.... it is easy to paint if you like wash down with t.s.p prime with zinnser 1-2-3 and then use any paint you like on top for wallpaper wash with t.s.p paint with sizing and your ready to paper if you want to get rid of the grooves you can use dyna patch or durabond but dont put to much at once if you do and have to sand a lot it will raise the nap on the panel good luck We just did this in my den that had wood panelling. sand the walls a little to rough them up. The primer will bond better. use an oil based quick drying primer like the Sherwin Williams brand called Pro Block. I heard kilz works well too. do all of you trim work first ( 2 coats) also paint the groovs with a soft two inch brush. one coat may be fine. Finally do two coats with the roller. This worked real well for me. I had real wood paneling but it was the thin junky stuff, not thick boards. If you have any more questions, let us know. good luck This post is meant to be a cover-all answer to people that wish to wallpaper over paneling, brick, or other unusual textured surface. Preparation: Remove all nails or other protruding objects. For textured surfaces, knock down any high points. For paneling, now is the time to ensure that the paneling is secure by adding additional nails. For slick surfaces/paneling, wash with TSP (TriSodium Phosphate) or equivalent grease cutting cleaner. Now, you can hang bridging material. This is a thick, blank wallpaper designed for irregular surfaces. Once hung, this will bridge the grooves in paneling or other unusual surface allowing for the ultimate application of wallpaper or it can even be painted. Alternate/additional advice: The application of joint compound to the grooves of paneling is an additional precaution when using bridging material. Some wallpaper installers use the joint compound, then primer technique instead of bridging material. For ceramic tile or other slick/glossy surface, sand the surface with 200-400 grit sandpaper followed by rinsing with TSP. Apply a prep coat and then hang your bridging material. Examples of prep coats are Roman's R-35, Zinsser's Z-54, California Paint's Prep' N Size, Golden Harvest's BITE, Muralo's Adhesium, Swing Paint's Prep-Coat, and Benjamin Moore's Wall-Grip. You may obtain bridging material at most home improvement stores. You may find out more by visiting the following manufacturers online: Eisenhart Wallcoverings Co. http://www.eisenwalls.com/ FLEXi WALL SYSTEMS http://www.flexiwall.com/ Imperial Home Decor Group (Online purchase capability) http://www.ihdg.com/ Cavalier Prints (Online and direct purchase capability) http://www.wallliner.com/ __________________ Rebecca Schunck http://www.wallpaperinstaller.com/ Can I wallpaper over paneling/brick or other rough surface? Forum Post. Wallpaper. Decorate. DoItYourself.com Forums. 04 September 2002. Retrieved 15 November 2002. DoItYourself.com. http://forum.doityourself.com/showth...threadid=88109
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I’m sorry if this is long winded (trying to get everything in). I’ve been monitoring this forum for a while now, and think it’s great. I now am in need of some advice myself, and hope one (or more) of the pro’s can assist. I have gotten bids to replace the boiler to my mother’s home, and would like some advice on which way to go. I’ve already posed for advicee on hvac-talk, and gotten some great input. Trying to get as many viewpoints as possible. Current system: Oil fired Crown Montego 113,000 btu (Net) with tankless coil and Wayne burner (1.3 gph) – installed circa 1975 – same age as house. System has two zones with BG P100 pumps. ѕ” copper fine tube radiation. Uses about 1100-1200 gal of oil per year. She has well water. Natural draft up chimney flue. House is a ranch with approx. 1950 Sq. Ft of living space with unfinished basement, and 1.5 baths. 2 people on average in home. NY Hudson valley area. I’ve gotten 4 proposals from different vendors: - Her oil Co. (Service current boiler) - Peerless WBV03WPCT with either Beckett or Riello (also offered Buderus) with Peerless Indirect 40 - HVAC vendor - Peerless WBV04 (125) with either Beckett or Riello (also offered Buderus) with Superstor Ultra 45 - Plumber - Burnham V84 with Beckett with Superstor Ultra 50 - Other oil Co. - Weill Mclain WGO with Beckett or Riello (also offered EK) I’m looking for (1) reliability; (2) efficiency ; (3) job cost No one would do a heat loss analysis or Manual J. Her oil Co. at least added up all the radiation and used the btu multiplier to come to approx. 91,000 btu/hr. I did my own heat-loss using the Crown site, and came to approx. 72,000 btu/hr heat loss on coldest day. My thinking is this: Peerless boiler and Riello F5 burner (they are comfortable inst./servicing them), with Superstor Ultra 45 due to lifetime warranties (except burner), and from what I’ve read very good products in their category with decent efficiency. Tried to get Carlin EZ burner, but no one really offered or seemed to install/service them here. My main issue is which Peerless, WBV03 or WBV04. I’m concerned about short cycling, and which one is an overall better boiler. Should boiler size be based on the heat-loss with DHW priority, which would favor the 03 (at 90 or 114,000 net), or on the indirect recovery, which might favor the 04 (at 102 or 131,000 net)? My problem with the 04 at 102,000 is it requires a “special” tip, and I much prefer standard equipment. Can the WBV03 at 90,000 net provide enough for heat and DHW (with priority), or should I go with the 114,000 (where I’m concerned with short cycling, especially since it is a lower water content boiler than the 04? Also, what temp should the combo boiler/indirect temps be set for efficiency/reliability/comfort? I’d appreciate any advice with my choice……………Thanks for your time and input You need to start with a heat loss. Sounds like one was not done. This will make sure the boiler is not oversized which costs more money to operate. Here is a site that explains well why you need a heat loss. www.comfort-calc.net/home-page.html To have the boiler installed without on is like the difference between science and pulling a boiler out of a barrel. Hello, I hope you are ready for this. You will probably get at least 5 different answers here. We all have our own opinion. I personally like the peerless boilers. It is one of my favorites right now. It is cost effective, good efficiency, easy to work on, and has a better warranty than some other competitors. The method I use to size boilers tells me you need 68,250 heating btu/s and I add 25,000 for indirect hot water heater. Total comes to 93,250 btu's Most of the guys on this site say my method is too high, so you can definitely use the WBV03 to meet your needs. I installed the same exact system in my mom's home approx. 9 yrs ago and it is still working fine. She also has a ranch about the same size as yours. Personally, I like beckett burners, but that all depends on your location and what the heat techs in your area are using. There is also nothing wrong with Riello. I have serviced many of them. Ideally your boiler temp should be around 180* as the baseboard is designed for that temperature. If you run it cooler, you would need more baseboard to complete the project. Pumbingod (Mark), thanks for your reply and input. I feel pretty comfortable now going with the WBV03 at 90,000. I would go with the Beckett, but I read in some posts that Beckett's tend to run dirtier, especially with pin-style boilers, and they are a bit less reliable than Riello's. I don't know if newer versions of Becketts have improved. I know Beckett parts are easier to get and less expensive, but I'm more concerned with reliability, and keeping the boiler running smooth at max efficiency. Like you said, everyone has an opinion. Maybe you can convince me on the Beckett, since I'd prefer going American if it meets the standard. Thanks again, Al Well, the biggest thing with Beckett is the simplicity and availability of parts and technicians. Not everyone in my area knows work on Reillo burners because they were never a huge seller. I used to be a Carlin fan, but for a while everyone was screwing them up, thats why the market in NH went to Becket. Relatively short answer/opinion: boiler: WBV03 with 0.6 gph nozzle. burner: couldn't tell ya. Clueless about oil burners. indirect: the Peerless Partner appears to be a rebadged HTProducts SuperStor Ultra. Generally well-regarded. The 40gal model should serve you well. Priority on the indirect. Add an anti-scald tempering valve (e.g. Taco i-Series or Sparco/Honeywell). Keep the tank at 140F and temper to ~105-115F for the fixtures. Also consider an outdoor reset control while you're at it. They work. And while you're at it, get rid of the electricity-sucking BG pumps and go with something like a Taco 007 or Grundfos 15-58. That decision alone will pay back in pretty short order. Good for you for doing a lot of homework and good luck! Thanks! This is great info. Plumbingods, point taken. I will make sure they can properly service the Riello, or I'll stick with Beckett. Xiphias, I know what your saying with the .6, but I probably wouldn't go with that because it requires a special tip, consulting factory for availability. I think my best bet is the .85 for a reasonable medium, and if the boiler short cycles at that, then consider the .6. I figured the Peerless was a re-badged Superstor, but it (Peerless) uses Polyeurathane for an insulator (which tends to off-gas), and my mother is sensitive to chemicals. SuperStor uses CFC free Polystyrene (much less of a problem). Mixing valve and outdoor reset are excellent suggestions, but are they reliable? How long does a mixing valve typically last? Does outdoor reset increase wear and tear on boiler? I'm trying to get a system in place that is set and forget except for annual maintenance (obviously components go over time, but trying to max that time). Also, small nozzles plug up easily. Have more problems. Mixing/tempering valves are a requirement in my city, and the best thing you can do for your system. Constant temperature. Taco and Honeywell both make them and work great. Should last 10+ yrs unless you have really bad water. It also can increase your hot water volume by turning up the temp a little in the tank to 160-180 and then set the house temp to 130* max. as per IPC code. I haven't done much with outdoor sensors yet. Sorry no help here. Good advice on the nozzle and the tempering valve. On the outdoor reset. There are a bunch of different flavors and they range in complexity. Probably the closest option to 'set and forget' with good quality and easy/no maintenance would be to use a Taco Switching Relay (SR) to control the space heating zone circulators and the indirect. They make an EXP version of the SR that includes an expansion plug for their PC-700 outdoor reset. Very simple to install. If it fails, the system can still run like a normal bang-bang system. If you go with zone valves on the space heating, you could use a Taco Zone Valve Control (ZVC) which also comes in an EXP version, and which can also control both the zone valves and a circulator for the indirect. You could also just go with the EXP SR or ZVC for now, and add the reset module later. You should definitely have a dedicated circulator for the indirect, sized to provide the rated flow through the indirect. I thought that the general consensuses was that a smaller nozzle at higher pressure produced a more efficient flame. With a reduction in fuel usage? No? Then just specify the filter according to nozzle flow? Al. I agree with the smaller nozzle size and the higher pump pressure, except when you get into the real small nozzles. I have had problems with .50 and.60 nozzles, because it is really easy to plug them. I can't remember the name of the furnace, but I was servicing some that took those smaller nozzles and I was replacing nozzles all the time. Maybe they just needed to be filtered better. But it was more than one furnace with the same problem, and the only furnaces I ever serviced with this size nozzles. Before working on this site, I thought it was wrong to put two filters on one oil line. I thought it would cause too much vacuum on the pump. Here's my opinion. After tons of reasearch I went with the Biasi b-10 boiler w ith a reilo f-5 burner. I have 3 zones and a taco zvc. I also installed a smart 40 idwh. I also used a tekmar 260 boilercontrol. I love this system and figure I'll save about 35 percent over my 40 year old slant fin. The Biasi is alow mass triple passboiler with a lifetime warenty. Also it is cheap. Mine was only $1800. just my opinionfor what it's worth. Also Ilive in Fairbanks AK and it can get to 50 below in the winter. I agree the Biasi B-10 is a good boiler also, I have only installed one so far, and it wasn't too bad. I think it is a Pensoti in disguise. Excellent discussion going on here. aktaylors - the opinion of anyone who takes the time to try and help COUNTS. Biasi and Riello, sounds good, like I'm back in Italy. I'm going with the Peerless though because most in my area carry and service them, and the top flue (single pass) design is what works in the space without mods. Definitely will go with Riello. xiphias/plumbingods - Convinced to go with mixing valve, well water isn't too bad. Also will look into outdoor reset. This might be a dumb/complicated question, but would the Taco SR EXP (w/PC-700) replace the Honeywell control that come with the Peerless, or be in addition to it? Taco 007's for zones are already in the works, with pump for indirect (use one that comes with WBV03). Some I've read have suggested having a second boiler aquastat that shuts the boiler down if the primary fails, to avoid a runaway. Anyone hear of this? ff Originally Posted by factfinder Some I've read have suggested having a second boiler aquastat that shuts the boiler down if the primary fails, to avoid a runaway. Anyone hear of this? ff From what I've seen/read there should be a high limit cutout aquastat. They are also available with a manual reset. Some of the Honeywell aquastats have this feature along with the boiler temperature setting and delta. If using an ODR then a single high limit aquastat is all that is required. The ODR acts on the TT terminals of the burner controller. And if something goes wrong and the burner keeps running the aquastat disconnects power from it. Al. Thanks for your help. Anyone know about the need for a back flow preventor and potable water expansion tank on the cold water input to the indirect? We have well water (300' well)with a Mark IV water tank, and a cut in/out pressure of 30 and 42 psi (lowered from 50 to reduce water draw, and keep pump submerged during dry spells), respectively. The indirect would be a 40, and setting temp at 140* with Honeywell/Sparco mixer on DHW outlet. Thanks. You definitely want the backflow preventer in ANY case, but perhaps even more so with a private well. Your potable system water pressure is almost always going to be way less than if you were on a city water supply, and probably more subject to 'outage', if for example you lose potable system pressure by drawing too fast on a slow well ... Anytime the potable system water pressure drops below the pressure in the boiler, there is a chance for backflow, and contamination of the potable system. It's not uncommon for private well systems to have pressure switch settings of 20 on, 40 off ... this means that your potable pressure will drop to 20 PSI before your pump kicks on. It's also not at all uncommon for boiler system pressure to be above 20 PSI. In some cases then, you don't even need a potable system 'outage' to get backflow. (P.S. my system is one that runs at 20-40... crappy old jet pump, shallow well) AND, you probably also know that you need a Pressure Reducing Valve on the cold water feed to the boiler... As for the potable expansion tank... it depends on a couple things. If there is a check valve between your cold supply and the heater, I would say YES, install the expansion tank. If there is no check valve, then your existing domestic pressure tank will absorb the expansion in the heater. I'd call it optional in the latter case... plus, adding one would give you a little more OFF time on your well water pump ... check your local codes regarding this, they may require one in any case. OK, I see where the confusion is... I didn't read the the facts that factfinder stated... he asked about a backflow preventer on the cold potable supply to the INDIRECT, NOT to the boiler... I would consult local codes on that one. They may require it. If they don't require it, I would consider it optional. To my knowledge, A BFP is not needed on the domestic/potable water supply to a Indirect fired water heater, but a vacuum breaker is. As Trooper stated, make sure to check with your local building authorities. Local codes may differ. Thanks fella's. Trooper, as you picked up, the feeds to boiler and indirect would be separate, and I would close the cold water boiler feed anyway once the heating system was filled and pressurized to 12 PSI, and rely on visual and low water cutoff to let me know if there is a leak somewhere. I was thinking BFP and expansion between the cold water pressure tank and the indirect to limit back pressure from the indirect when calling for cold water (and subsequent drop in pressure in the cold water tank/system - like you said). I would want to try to limit the hot water being backfed into the cold water pipes, wasting hot water, and possible causing other problems. The expansion tanks come pre-pressurized to 40 PSI, which should work fine. I'll look into local codes, but it seems to be a prudent thing to do, although not mentioned on any bids. Although all bids assumed IWH temp of 120*, where I would want to keep it at 140*. Plumbingods, what is a vacuum breaker? Never heard of it. Not listed as an item on the bids, but may already be included. A vacuum breaker is a device, mounted above the tank that will introduce air if there is a negative pressure on the tank. This is a device used to protect your tank and components. Here is an example, if the water company was working down the hill from your home on the mains and they drained all the pipes. Instead of the water getting sucked out o the tank and possibly causing the elements to blow, or cause a gas/oil water heater to run with no water in it, or of coarse, the worst condition, to implode the tank, the water line will suck in air and stop at latter from happening. In NH it is code. You should have absolutely no reason to close the valve to the boiler after it is filled. The fast fill and BFP will stop any harm should there be a negative pressure. You want to leave the valve on while the boiler eliminates air and slowly changes the pressure on the boiler. Expansion tanks for boilers, I have never adjusted. About a year ago I worked for a water meter installation company, and we put in a lot of domestic thermal expansion tanks. Make sue to size the tank properly by the size of the hot water tank, and the static water pressureof the home, then set the pressure to 3 psi under the static pressure. I run my system with the feed valve closed ... always have. BUT, I've very diligent on keeping an eye on the pressure gauge. If you've been working on the system, and it's been drained, fresh water, etc , then I would leave the valve open until I was confident all the air was out, and close it again. If you leave it open and something springs a leak, there's possible water damage that could be minimized by keeping it closed. If you keep it closed and spring a leak and do NOT have an LWCO installed (which you said you do), you are asking for real trouble... fire the boiler dry and you are in for a replacement boiler, and very high risk of fire... But, you have an LWCO, and know that it works (you've tested it ?)... so I really see no harm in closing the valve and keeping an eye on the pressure diligently. This is of course just my opinions, and your mileage may vary. [deleted incorrect info] Yes, I understand what Trooper is saying about closing the valve. Where I live we have a lot of slumlo...,oops I mean landlords that do not pay attention to their systems, and the mandatory LWCO just started a few years ago, so I am used to leaving the water supply valves open. But Trooper does make sense about if the boiler sprung a leak, having the valve closed would minimize any water damage. So, I guess it is to each his own on this one. I'd be willing to bet that very few homeowners ever check the systems gauges and stuff ... until there is no heat ! or hot water ... so it's not only the guys who collect the rent ! No, for the average homeowner, I'd leave it open also... I'd say it's a 'judgement call' . Armed with knowledge of the pros and cons, make your own decision... I guess that's the bottom line ? Unless it is a massive leak the highest floor will run out of heat first. Again unless massive it will take awhile until the next floor down looses heat. I am in favor of low water cut-offs on boilers not so much for this reason but the other. I also believe we must follow the manufacturers installation manuals. Some say leave them open and at least 1 says to close the valve. Read the IO manual and decide what you want to do. Thank you all. As far as the LWCO, my view was to leave the feed open for a while (week or two) while the system settles, then close it and monitor it closely for a week or two, just to make sure I had no un-known leaks, etc. After that I wasn't sure whether to leave it open or closed. The current boiler feed has been left open for the last 33 years, but it has no LWCO. But I'll do like rbeck said, and go by Peerless IO Manual, the discussion that you gentlemen just had, and what the installers normally do (since they'll be servicing it). My main reason for leaving the feed off would be to prevent a major leak, but since I'll have a DHWH at 40 gallons, I guess the feed to the heating system would be the least of my worries, especially since there is no floor drain (unfinished basement). Trooper/all - Based on what I'm reading, the basic idea as far as the expansion tank for DHWH, is to match the empty (pre-charge) PSI to the cold water Well tank PSI when empty (which is 28 PSI - 2 PSI below well pump cut-in pressure). Right? If you have a well tank, and there is no check valve between the water heater and the well tank, adding another expansion tank will be rendered totally useless, as the well tank will take the place of the thermal expansion tank. [bad info, I deleted it...] Plumbingods, the plan is to place a back flow preventor (check valve) on the cold water input to the Indirect, so there is less hot water migration back onto the cold water line, with less heat loss, less work by the cold water tank to take up the pressure, etc. I was asking about the small expansion tank (I see Amtrol and Watts make them for potable systems) between the DHWH and the check valve to account for hot water expansion and equalize cold/hot water systems. This will not be used for added capacity for the cold water tank, since it would be separated by the check valve. Trooper, I've been told by other pro's to leave this small tank at its given pre-charge (40 PSI) even for a well system, since you don't want it fluctuating with the cold water tank pressure, you only want it to take up excess water that has expanded due to heating in the DHWH, and then give it back when hot water is called. This is one confusing topic. I guess I did not realize you were going to put in a check valve. In your case, definitely add a thermal expansion tank. I installed thermal expansion tanks professionally for a water meter installation and repair company and, because we were installing a check valve along with the meters, we also needed to install thermal expansion tanks If you read the instruction papers that come with Amtrol tanks, you need to size you're expansion tank by the home static pressure and the gallon capacity of the water heater. Then you are to adjust the tank pressure to equal the static pressure of you particular home. I usually went about 2psi under. Here is the paper that comes with every tank. Note the sizing chart, and the pre-installation sections. http://www.amtrol.com/pdf/9015-087revDTXT.pdf Ya know, the more I think about it, it does make sense to leave it at 40. Think of it more as a LIMIT control than an OPERATING control, and it makes a lot of sense. It will only START acting if the pressure goes up above 40 ... working as a sorta high limit. And... actually, by lowering the pressure in that tank, you would be reducing it's effectiveness by doing so. If it's already half full of water, how will it take more water when the water expands from being heated ? Since your main tank is your OPERATING control point... that one obviously needs to stay 2-3 PSI above the low cut in though... don't raise the pressure on that one or you'll have problems... I know we're really getting way off topic though... but after all, it IS an indirect, which is connected to a boiler ... more an 'over-lapping' topic than off Thanks Mark for posting that link ! OK, the IO for them tanks says to adjust the pressure to EQUAL the incoming system pressure. It doesn't mention any 'special cases' such as a private well. With a 'normal' city water system, the pressure is going to remain relatively constant. So, setting the tank at or a few PSI below that 'static' pressure makes perfect sense. That tank will never see a 20-25 PSI pressure swing. Setting it at the static pressure gives it the most expansion room possible. Mark is correct here... on a system that actually _has_ a STATIC pressure. However, on a well system, the pressure routinely swings between two settings, in this case, what was it, 30-45 ? That's not 'static' it's 'dynamic'. In order to maximize the capacity for thermal expansion, the tank should be set to the HIGH end, or 2-3 PSI below the HIGH end... so 40-45 PSI would be correct. You _want_ the pressure to be able to swing normally without the tank taking water. Everything I said previously about setting that tank 2-3 PSI below the low end is totally wrong. Maybe I should go back and edit out the wrong info ... [ I did ] I used to just put in tanks pre charged and leave them also, until I worked for this company and someone showed me the IO. We had to carry 12v compressors to do the job as per instructions. And yes, I understand what you are saying about a well. The job I was on obviously was all city water as we were installing new meters for the whole city. I came in on phase 2 after the first town official said not to put in thermal ex tanks. Well I guess after a few water heater relief valves started leaking, they changed their minds. Hence phase 2, installing ex tanks. That was all I was doing to every house in the city. Nice cake job. Thank you fella's. I know my installer may know the things discussed here, but always good to learn something on a topic so can ask intelligent questions. I feel much more comfortable with the decision now. What do they say, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. Well, hopefully I'm not too dangerous. New boiler/indirect going in in two weeks. Hopefully everything works out. Al Hello again. Hope everyone had great Labor Day weekend. Boiler install delayed for another week or two. I have a question concerning the smoke pipe. Due to boiler and flue location, I pass within a few inches of combustible ceiling in basement/garage. Current boiler uses single wall smoke pipe to chimney flue. I know this is not code. I want to use double wall pipe with the WBV03. The WBV03 is not an L vent rated appliance (at least not what I've read from Peerless). Can double wall black stove pipe be used for this application? I was thinking the Selkirk DSP double wall (6 clearance). Someone else suggested Metal Fab, Inc. double wall. Anyone use double wall pipe to chimney flue for boiler installs? It's about a 10' run with two 90's. No problems with draft on current boiler.....Thanks.
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so I decided to replace my blower motor. I went to ac supply and bought a motor. I took the old one to match. I hooked up the yellow and blue wire just like the old motor. I hooked up capacitor and thought this was easy. Flipped the breaker and the fan took off like a jet plane. The motor specs appear to be the same. After a poof from the motor I shut it down. I am now wondering where to go from here? Any advice is appreciated here is the original motor info ge 5kcp39pg S084 s the motor the store sold me is a ao smith Fd6001 I think the original is a 3 speed and the replacement is a 4 speed? Is this an air handler with electric heat? I see that the new motor is 230 volt 3 speed 3/4 hp. I can't bring up that exact GE motor. A 4 speed motor usually uses white for common and yellow is a speed. A 3 speed motor will somtimes use yellow for common. (this appearance may be due to age) Connecting yellow to common instead of white can smoke a motor. You might double check the wiring. Thanks for the help This a air handler with heat. the new motor is a 4 speed which I found out later. The original GE says it is a 3 speed. The original had the yellow and blue hooked up. I didnt pay attention so Im sure it is fried. the ao smith site has a fd1076 which is what I think I need? The link below will lead you to the models we are talking about. If I buy the 3 speed can I assume that yellow is to be used? I will try to post the GE info the ge motor has a yellow, red, blue, black and 2 cap brown leads. it says 1100 rpm 3sp on the side. I assume this is a 3 speed. A.O.Smith Electrical Products Company Houston I checked the ao smith site and you are correct. The three speed motor does use yellow for common and blue. The 4 speed uses white. So I guess the motor is fried. Could any other components be affected from hooking the yellow? It is possible that the fan relay on your circuit board was damaged. You can remove power and visually inspect both sides of the circuit board. I'd start with a new motor and cap.
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